Untethered : March 22 to April 9, 2015 Zihuatenajo to Hualtuco, MX

Over the course of a few days, we walked the streets of Zihuatenajo, stopping at markets for provisions, supplies for repairs and pastries.

On Sunday, March 22 we set sail for Bahia Papanoa (Bahia de Tequepa) aka Puerto Vicente Guerrero a small harbor 31 miles southeast of Bahia de Patatlan. We motored out of Bahia Zihuatenajo with so little wind, once we had all the sails up we were sailing south to our destination. Along the way we had some hitchhikers, frigate birds on the spring line. The night before we had Steve (Wiki), Nikki and Phoenix from Penn Station over for dinner. Great deal of laughs and relaxation on the stern deck. Upon getting closer to our destination and a stiff wind to our backs we decided to sail on to Acapulco. Dan and Wayne took the 19.30 to 23.30 shift. Winds average ws 10-12 knots with white capped waves rocking the boat and 5-6 knots speed. At 24:00 we were 45 miles from Acapulco. We jibed around 23:00 and notice the mensal was torn, we took down the sheet to see the seam completely tore about three quarters up the sail. Wayne took the helm while Dan jibed the jib and main sail. Leaving for a needed slumber Keith and Kathy took their shift to 5:00 a.m. Woke to a slow sail at 1.5 knots.

On the water again

Another wonderful week in Mexico, we anchored in Acapulco, Bahia de Acapulco. We were anchored with Heavy Metal, Argonauta, Nirvana, Alcyne and the last to arrive was Irie. We walked to Fuerte de San Diego walked in and spoke to a tour guide who explained how the name Acapulco came to be known from the Nahuatl language means "where the reeds were destroyed or washed away" which is a Romeo and Juliet type of story of love. Then off to the tall ship and spoke with some of the crew members, they leave for the Mediterranean on April 25 for 8 months with their first stop in Norfolk, VA.

We toured the area near the fort

Acapulco Bay and ARM Cuauhtemoc in the background

ARM Cuauhtemoc - Mexican Navy Tall Ship

Local market in Acapulco

Inside the local market

Lunch at a quesadilla restaurant, food was delicious

We went to the cliff divers with the group to watch a must see event while here. For us the best part was walking the markets where there were no tourists or gringos but the four of us. We sat at a small restaurant eating quesidillas handmade with fresh ingredients. Moments later we walked through a maze of vendors selling vegetables, fruits, clothing, shoes, meat and fish. We enjoyed a really nice dock party in the marina with Permanent Temporary (Gayle and Don) put this event on at their boat. Fun evening chatting with people we have met Alcyne, Nirvana, Moontide, Heavy Metal, Irie, and Argonauta.

Cliff divers jump from different points on the edge into the sea below as the waves bring in more water. Remarkable to see this in person after so many years of ABC Sports in our youth.

Thursday, March 26th we got ready around noon to head to shore, finally made it to the beach with no event. We got hungry and had lunch at El Chinchorro for pozolle and free wifi. We watched the fishermen bringing in several nets, captured some really good photos then we walked looking for plywood. After being in Acapulco for 5 days we set sail for Puerto Marques and set anchor in Bahia de Puerto Marques. Now we prepare to set our course to Hualtuco, 250 miles south east.

Great food and inexpensive, best view for a relaxing lunch.

Beach view for lunch at El Chinchorro

Men bringing in the harvest, fish from the bay. Each man had what looked like a sling over one arm to bring in the net then they would go to the beginning to start over again.

The men take the fish off the beach after being tossed from the net and wash it in the waves. Young man takes his fish for his family.

Beach overlooking Acapulco Bay

Memories of Manila jeepney as a super bus in Acapulco.

Sailed into Bahia de Puerto Marques, beautiful sail around to this bay. Small vibrant village on the water. We covered the sails and repaired the stisal with a new flange. Hopped into the dinghy to make it on shore. Beach goes down into the water with a 80 degree slope, little breakwater due to the drop off. We were assisted onto the beach by Roberto. Very proud man who grew up here and runs a diving and fishing business.

Wayne's selfie while sailing to Puerto Marques

Entering Puerto Marques Bay

We walked around town, which appeared very sleepy with businesses closing while we walked around. We did find at least one restaurant with wifi but menu prices were high. We secured some provisons at OXXO then ate our Magnum Ice Creams while we walked. We bumped into Roberto again and met his French girlfriend, Sofi and his 4 year old daughter, "the heart of his life".

Art work on the side of an elementary school

Tourist shops and restaurants all along this street that parallels the bay

Looks like the sea turtle from "Finding Nemo" we saw inside a restaurant

Puerto Marques

Man sleeping in front of his restaurant

Another day draws to an end, what a great gift. perfect sunset from the beach

On Saturday March 28, we woke to calm seas but rocking a bit this morning. The village is waking up with the sun coming over the mountains behind it. Another day in Paradise!

Umberto sailed by to say hello and offer fishing, showing us his lures and explaining tourism has decreased in Mexico from corruption. He told us about college students, 43 of them were killed in this state of Guerrero. He offered to get us anything and told us to use the public dock.

We went ashore to walk around town, sat in a local market area and watched the vendors and small children play. We sat with smiles on our faces watching a small boy playing with a little girl in a carriage. She jumped with glee when he pushed her off from him smiling and laughing. Walked some more closer to the playa and then sat down for lunch. Moved the dinghy off the playa and anchored 30 feet from the beach and swam for about an hour. Great day, watching people on the beach as more and more Mexican tourists arrived for the 2 weeks Easter school holiday. Kathy got a massage while we were on the playa having lunch.

Vendor along the road

Man sharpening items on the street

Boys playing with tops

Lunch with a view

We set sail for Hualtuco today and with us at 4 knots should take us two days to arrive.

Sunset as we leave

We are going to take the first shift on this overnight starting at 19:30 to 23:30 being relieved by Dan from 23:30 to 3:30 then on 04/02 Kathy 3:30 to 7:30. We start our watch between White Rock and Puerto Angel with 15 nautical miles left to the first bay in Hualtulco. Should take us 15 hours more of travel at the current speed of .7 knots with 3.9 knots of wind coming from the ocean. We know the wind will shift to off shore during our watch. The wind did ultimately shift as we started to round the point of Puerto Angel, we trimmed the sails toward starboard and watch the winds fill the sails coming off port. We we traveling at 2.5 to 3.8 knots with average wind speed of 4.4 knots. We gained momentum and closed the distance to Puerto Sacrificos when Dan came up on 4/2 at 12:15.

Keith at the helm

Navigation program and windworks

Wayne with Keith manning the helm

Our selfie while at the helm

6:40 a.m. sunrise over the bow sprit

We arrived in Santa Cruz, Hualtuco after anchoring in Bahia Chachacual which was crowded with boats and people.

Rocky coast from Sacrificios to Chachacual

Decided to go another 2.5 miles to Bahia Cacaluta and duck in around Isla Cacaluta (Black Eagle Island) where we spent a night.

Sunset in Bahia Cacaluta

On the beach in Bahia Cacaluta

Us at the sign for the National Park which covers most of the bays in Hualtulco.

We came to Santa Cruz is check in with the Port Captain’s office but told to come back several times, probably due to Semana Sanata (Easter Weekend). We sailed out to Maguey Bay on Holy Saturday and went to the beach. On Easter Sunday the waves were really crashing on the boat, as we observed the heavy bobbing from shore. We had settled in at a beach restaurant, Camaron Gigante, ordered food and tried to get their internet connection. We decided after sitting comfortably for a couple of hours to leave and set sail for Santa Cruz and the safety of her harbor. We had a rough and rocky cruise with 6 foot sea swells causing havoc on the journey. Another reason we are waiting for the window to cross the Gulf of Tehuantepec, since the winds from there were causing these rough waters from 200 miles away. We settled in at Santa Cruz and began the cleaning of the galley.

Moguey Bay on the beach having lunch at Camaron Gigante

US Coast Guard cutter Boutwell visits us in Santa Cruz

Wednesday, April 8, Kathy, Keith and Wayne went snorkeling in the bay where we were anchored in Santa Cruz. We found the water clear, warm and refreshing to see the coral reef is growing with an variety of sea life.

Snorkeling in Santa Cruz, puffer fish and wrasse

Angel fish with healthy coral

Needle fish

Small sea snake

After snorkeling near the anchorage we took the dinghy over to the other side of the bay to Playa Yerbabuena. This area was full vacationers celebrating Seman Santa (Holy Week vacations which may last two weeks around Easter) The beach was filled with many families at splashing in the water and enjoying their vacation post Easter Sunday.

Us standing on a cement platform overlooking the beach.

We changed and then headed to pick up Dan and spent time there getting coffee and watching the people come then took a taxi to Santa Crucecita. Got gelato and watched an amazing boy playing lead guitar in a band backed by 3 adults playing guitar, bass and drums. Then we headed back to Santa Cruz and watch an acoustic guitarist sing and play from the band stand above the coffee shop.