Untethered : September 2017

We are so excited to have the opportunity to finally meet Martin Dixon-Tyrer, as we begin our journey south to join him on Otra Vida for a 6-8 weeks sailing adventure from Puerto Williams.

We were awake at 1:15 am on September 4th for Knights pick-up for 2:15. All luggage packed and ready. There was absolutely no traffic to BOS and no construction. We arrived at BOS with plenty of time for a 5:00 am flight to IAH (Houston).

When we landed in Houston at 9:04 am we went to customer service to discuss our baggage situation, since BOS only had the baggage booked to IAH. The customer service Agent was of great service to us. She told us BOS should have manually taken care of the baggage straight through to Punta Arenas. She took the time and wrote a note on the Boardng Pass to Santiago telling them to check baggage, the computer does not allow checking baggage in is over 8 hours, so they can manually check the bags. Our flight to Santiago, Chile was at 21:50. We went downstairs and picked up the baggage from carousel and walked to Premier Desk. They checked our baggage in with no issues and then we proceeded to the United Club Lounge in Terminal C.

We spent the day in the Club lounge without having to use our One Pass access cards. Keith cleaned out his in-box for work and grazed most of the day. While Wayne was playing word games, some work and started the blog for the May North Carolina trip.

We had a surprise visitor in the afternoon, when Olu came over and said hello. We meet a charming British couple, Marion and Graham that we chatted with for what seemed like hours. The conversation was seamless and easy, like an old sweater. We exchanged email addresses.

We boarded the plane on time but did not leave on time. While Keith slept the maintenance issue with the seal on the exit door was repaired and off we went at 23:00 to Santiago, Chile. While Wayne had Dinner and watched part of a disturbing movie with Liam Neeson, we were on our way with so much excitement in our hearts for this new adventure.

We wake to breakfast on September 5th, we are now an hour away. We open the window shade as we are moving closer to our final destination, the mountains coming into Santiago are impressive. We were sitting on the ocean side looking over green lush mountains. we gazed across the plane to an open window and can see the inland side. We could see high beautiful peaks with snow.

Hazy day coming into Santiago but the view with the naked eye was spectacular.

About 30 minutes out from landing

You cannot imagine how excited we are looking at the coast of Chile! Wondrous!

Descending into Santiago

We landed in Santiago with one hour before our flight was to leave, we still had to get through Immigration, baggage claims and then Customs. We lucked out in Immigration where a runner saw we asked to see our tickets and got through all check points with efficiency and ease. Customs wanted to open the Blue hard-case bag but Keith handed them our trail mix, then they got lost looking at the radar equipment for the boat that was in the carry-on. After that they let us go and did not open another bag. Phew, all items accounted for, CHECK! Ran through the airport, re-checked our baggage.

We ran through the airport to the gate entrance and slide under all the line dividers by passing several hundred people. A kind man let us go before him and we passed security then ran to the gate. Ran past a very long line to Premier, thankfully we can do this or we would have been the last on the plane with no place to put the radar, carry-on bag.

At least, we had an opportunity to work-up a sweat and burn some calories from yesterday's inactivity. Next stop Punta Arenas, 3 hour flight. Total time today in the airs is 15 hours.

Ascending leaving Santiago

Still ascending from Santiago

The mountains are breathtaking and we will definitely run our of adjectives on this trip

Heading south to Punta Arenas. The Cordeillera de la Costa are on the coast line and between Chile and Argentina lie the Andes Mountains. Wayne was able to see the Andes from his seat and captured those photos here in the blog. Lucky to have gotten these photos as a cloud bank covered the view right after in a white blanket moving quickly an absorb the view in pure stillness.

Ascending from Punta Arenas, look at this view!

Still ascending

Above Padre Hurtado

Above Mostazal at 30,000 feet

We are above Rengo, Chile at 34,000 feet, the snow covered peaks are amazing

This shot is pretty amazing of Viedma Glacier

Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas on the descent

Punta Arenas

Just for an idea of where we are in Chile, we have added a weather map of southern Chile.

We leave here by ferry to Puerto Williams

We arrived at our host, Cristian Paredes home at 15:00 and Cristian had given us his wifi password before we arrived. We logged onto his wifi and sent him a Whatsapp that we had arrived. It was a bit windy and cold while we sat on the front steps, as Cristian was arriving home at 17:30. He text us and said the gate to the garden was open and to walk in. Keith walked over to the gate then walked out the front door. The home is charming and was warm...we took the chill off and set our bags out.

He arrived while we were sitting at the table working and waved as he walked by the window with a huge smile. We sat and chatted for a while then made a decision to go out to dinner for famous Chilean dish from Punta Arenas. Made from the giant crab that inhabit the waters off the coast.

Cristian's dining area, work area set up. We are in the sunshine and warm from the outdoor elements.

Palacio Sara Braun National Monument

Palacio Sara Braun Monumento Nacional

We walked through the area to the restaurant. Cristian recommended a restaurant for the following morning for a traditional Punta Arenas meal at Le Mejor Picada de Chile. We walked another few more blocks to La Luna. We were the only ones in the restaurant but when we finished there were more people (we heard some other Americans behind us).

Keith and I ordered Chupe de Centolla creamy baked crab with bread crumbs on the top, very rich and delicious. We were not disappointed with the meal. Cristian has Ostiones a La Pamesana (scallops in cream sauce with parmesana cheese). Wayne had a Calafate Sour to drink, alcoholic drink made from wild blueberries from the region.

Chupe de Centollas

Cristian Paredes, Keith Midgette and Wayne Garcia at La Luna

We walked back to the house then got into the car and drove to the ferry terminal. The drive from the house was 3.3 miles. When we got back we all crashed from exhaustion, for us from the time we left home to Cristian's home was 36 hours of travel (in the air and airport time).

Woke this morning rejuvenated and ready to take on the new day, a bit chilly out but we have layers to throw on. We had coffee and listened to some music before going out and getting into a Collectivo (sort of a collective taxi at half the rates) for 900 Chilean pesos ($1.45 for our ride) to the ferry to pay for our sleeper seats for September 7th.

We decided to walk back to town and walk through this long park in the center of the main road to the ferry. We were on a mission to find a restaurant recommended by our host. With a little detective work and reenacting our path to La Luna, we found this small restaurant packed with people for take away and sitting at the counters. We had a great conversation with an academic from Santiago, she just taught a class in Punta Arenas and is spending 3 days here. Next to Wayne was a young guy who is an Engineer working as a sheep farmer here. Our order came Leche con plantano o saborada and sandwich de chorizo (Banana milk drink and sausage sandwich with mayonaise) for 3600 Chilean pesos and we tipped the waitress 650 pesos ($5.72 for lunch and tip $1.30).

Our boat is at the dock getting ready for tomorrow

Bus stop

Captain Ignacio Carrera Pinto important military figure in Chile's history

The Sheepherder Monument

giddy up, Keith riding the bronze horse

Wayne riding the sheep

Sara Braun Municipal Cemetery of Punta Arenas

Croatian Mausoleum

Memorial to Vice Admiral Maximilla Reichsgraf von Spee, he died at the Battle of the Falkland Islands

Avenues lines with large trimmed evergreens

This cemetery is a look into the history of Punta Arenas from the cosmopolitan families that lived here to oldest area known as 'The British' section with a marker to the HMS Datrel. This part of the cemetery holds the tombs of British, Scottish, Welsh, Norwegians, Spanish and Chileans. The Welsh and Scottish. After leaving the cemetery we walked to the center of Punta Arenas for lunch at Kiosko Roca (la major picada de Chile).

Leche con plantano o saborada and sandwich de chorizo

View from the Sky Bar of Punta Arenas harbor

The Clinic, local bar with European style architecture

Cathedral de Punta Arenas built 1892

Sara Braun Palacio

Cristian came home around 18:30. Cristian and Wayne enjoyed a gin and tonic, while Cristian prepared dinner. We relaxed and all ended up in the kitchen listening to music and chatting. We had a pork dish with rice, flavorful and delicious. Nice evening relaxing and sharing experiences and helping Cristian with English and Wayne's Spanish.

Dinner by candle light with Cristian, Keith and Wayne

Pork with rice and cilantro

Cannot believe how fast this trip is going, we leave tonight September 7th at 18:00 for Puerto Williams. We have the itinerary from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams, so we know where we are at different hours of the day. This will make it easy for photographs when we put them in the blog.

The ferry trip from Punta Arenas to Puerto Williams took more time since we had to deviate from the usual path due to rough seas from the Pacific. The Captain chose to come in more northerly into protected waters. The views are vast and amazing. We are having the time of our lives and just enjoying each other. Time here moves slowly but also quickly, as you look out and become absorbed by the beauty you forget about everything then realize several hours flew by.

Leaving Punta Arenas

The sunsets here are beyond words

View behind us

This is what we woke to and climbed on deck for the view before breakfast :)

Sunrise in Cabo de Hornos

Straits of Megllan

Keith had this navigation app on his iPad, Navionics tracked our journey and shows where the Captain chose another path to take us.

We continue to sail south to Puerto Williams and the views are breathtaking

The Islands and mountains of Patagonia, Chile are just outstandingly gorgeous

just amazing, pinch us

Keith has not stopped smiling, just nice

Bundled up and ready to go

Still cannot believe the vastness of this area

Approaching our first glacier, Ventisquero Espana

Glacier Spain

glaciers in the background, Keith all bundled warm and toasty

Glacier Sweden

Glacier Germany

Glacier France

Breathtaking glaciers

The most spectacular of them all, Glacier Italy

Photo time, the ferry stopped for photo opportunities! Sweet.

Dinner is calling and darkness is falling upon another amazing travel day. We have 5-6 more hours to go before we arrive in Puerto Williams at 2:00 am and then disembark for the hostel. We were incredibly lucky that we could leave all of our luggage aboard until we met up with Martin to secure the luggage later in the day and get a horizontal sleep.

We woke up in Refugio El Padrino, Cecelia arrived with fresh eggs and bread for breakfast. We chatted with her and our roommate. Cecilia is an amazing woman who lives with her family and has this house for visitors and some local fisherman. She has 4 daughters and a horse, Erica, that runs around town freely. So free, that she thinks she is a human and walked into the local hospital one day.

After meeting Martin Dixon Tyrer, our host and Captain, we take a walk over to the marina where Otra Vida is waiting. We did not get to see the views when we arrived but the surprise of the day is fantastic. Here is a glimpse into the work of Puerto Williams:

Walk over to the Marina/Yacht Club

Marina/Yacht Club

Interior of the Yacht Club

Second floor of the Yacht Club

First floor is magical with all the flags from boats and expeditions

View of Argentina in the distance from the Yacht Club

Marina

Quick trip in Puerto Williams, but a fantastic evening with Bodo, Rosie and Mark and Martin. Conversation and the combination of personalities was perfection. So much fun and loads of laughter. Perfect beginning to our time with Martin. We are off to Argentina in the morning as the weather window is right for tomorrow and shuts down following that for a few days.

The sail to Ushuaia, Argentina was great, started with calm seas and mild winds which increased as we approached Ushuaia but no more than 20knots. We all took turns at the helm, so nice to be on the water again, since our last tour with Good Hope.

Wayne at the helm

Argentina ahead of us, want to break out in song.....

Keith at the helm, happy man

Ushuaia, Argentina will be home for the week

We arrive in Argentina, take care of entry, immigration and customs paperwork needed to enter the country. We are here for provisioning and to pick up, Tatiana Goncales when she arrives from São Paulo, Brazil.

Ushuaia, Argentina

Raising the flag of Argentina and Quarantine flag until all documents are signed

Peace and calm

Nightfall comes to another day in Argentina

Snow fall on day 2, Thursday 14Sep

Club Nautico

Snow on the boat and around

After completing all our provisioning in Ushuaia. Tatiana Gonçales arrives and joins us to complete our crew. We stay in Argentina a couple more days until Monday due to our weather window to travel back to Puerto Williams.

We started the trip motoring out of Ushuaia then we able to sail until the wind completely died from 15-18 knots to 6 knots. We motored the rest of the way to Puerto Williams. Keith and Wayne saw a penguin in the channel floating on its back cleaning its white belly. So exciting, the vast beauty is incomprehensible. Every way you turn in fantastic, pure paradise.

We took a trek up into the mountains for 6.5 hours. The views are amazing. We saw Cecilia at the top of the mountain with her family. We had a very warm greeting from her. Special day for the local people of Puerto Williams, as a ceremony was held to place a new Chilean flag on the peak. We met Martin up top since he was skiing. Keith then skied down some, this is the most southern place in the World to ski.

Tatiana and Keith as we sail for Chile

Martin ready for the sail

Wayne

Puerto Williams

another great sunset in Puerto Williams over Tierra del Fuego

Beautiful mountains in the distance

As we climb Cerro Bandera

Great time for a selfie

Keith at the first overlook

From the top of the mountain looking over the Beagle Channel and Tierra del Fuego

Wayne and Keith at the new Chilean Flag on Cerro Bandera

Sail school students near the boat

Another evening coming to an end.

We leave on Thursday 21 September to start heading west then north to Puerto Natales. We had to wait for all provisioning to be complete, plus waiting for the gas stations for petrol and propane to open after the long holiday weekend for Chile's Independence. Additionally, we waited for a good weather window to travel in the channel.

We finish our chores, get our laundry, Martin makes an offering of Mistral Pisco to Neptune and Poseidon for safe voyage. We start our sail west with calming winds and beautiful flat water to start our journey. Keith does a happy dance after breakfast while standing at the helm.

We left Puerto Williams at 9:00 with an amazingly calm trip to Ushuaia with 2.4knot winds, at 14:00 we could see the wind affects on the water with winds accelerating with gusts up 18.9 within minutes. We were traveling at 6 knots speed then dropped to 2.6 knots with the wind change. With the increase in wind we ducked into Caleta Eugenio on Beagle Channel, Isla Hoste, Peninsula Dumas, Islotes Capamento. We traveled 33 nautical miles today.

Good Morning Puerto Williams

The beginning of the 5 week journey to Puerto Natales, travel in the Beagle Channel

Warm enough to relax in the hammock

Amazing view along the Beagle Channel heading West

Our journey lays ahead of us

After we arrive in Caleta Eugenio, the shore lines are placed and Otra Vida is snug we journey out for a hike.

Keith, Tatiana and Wayne hiked around Caleta Eugenio for about an hour as it started to rain. Saw some sheep and really nice fauna. All cozy and tucked in for the evening, Martin prepared an incredible meal and then we played cards, something we became accustomed to after many weeks of sailing.

Shore line tied off to the stern

View from the port side with shore line out

Our view of Caleta Eugenio and Otra Vida from shore

The landscape was primitive and beautiful with no one around

Moss and lichen

As the weather begins to change, we decide to start to head back to the boat.

Caleta Eugenio on Beagle Channel, Isla Hoste, Peninsula Dumas, Islotes Capamento

We started the journey with 451nautical miles to Puerto Natales and covered 33 nautical miles in the first day with good weather but that will not last since the weather in this temperate rain forest changes quickly. The winds shift and crank up to 50 knots, currents can be against us and swells can be 2-3 meters high. Martin checked the weather every morning and we discussed whether we should travel or not but with his experience in this area, we would generally all agree with safety first.

Our next anchorage is Caleta Olla located in Brazo Noroeste on the Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego at the base of Ventisquero Holanda (Glacier Holland). We travel 25 nautical miles sailing with 14 knots of wind against the bow, calm water and fighting currents. We arrive at noon, the anchorage is flat calm and super protected. We are planning a fire on the beach tonight with dinner and some adult refreshments.

Approaching the glaciers and Isla Gordon, Beagle Channel, Patagonia

Isla Hoste to the left and Isla Gordon directly in front and Tierra del Fuego to the right

Our view during the 25 miles

Glacier in the distance as we approach the anchorage

Keith, Tati and I went for a hike toward Glacier Holland and saw a Guanaco on the beach, but it was too far ahead of us for a photo. Took some stunningly beautiful photos up on the ridges. We hiked along the beach for campfire and then back to the boat. Keith and I took the dingy out an hour later to where we would have the fire and dinner ratatouille.

Dinghy out of site behind us as we walk along the beach

Drift wood on the beach

Glacier Holland

Another view as we got closer to the glacier

Plants in Tierra del Fuego, Michay is the holly like leave

Tati and Keith on a rock overlooking the opening of the Caleta to the Channel

Keith, Wayne and Tati selfie with the glacier behind us

Keith and Wayne with Glacier Holland

Donatia fascicularis

Clinopodium darwinii = Satureja darwinii

Soft spongy ground cover

micro flora found in Patagonia's temperate rainforest

Caleta Olla and Otra vida

Beach fire with Martin, Tati and Keith with our majestic view

We set sail the next morning, 23 September, for Seno Pia, 25 nautical miles from Caleta Olla. We will be there for a while as our weather window is about to be slammed closed for a few days. At least we will be comfortable in Caleta del Norte in the western arm of Seno Pia.

We arrived in Seno Pia, Keith and Wayne went to shore to salvage some lost lines that Martin had to abandon due to very bad weather. We saw seals on rocks and in the water, chaperoned by Patagonian dolphins then watched calving of ice from Glacier Blue Peaks (Picos Azules) and Vestiquero Romanche (Sweden). The two glaciers meet when facing the Glacier with Picos Azules to the left and Glacier Sweden to the right. We had Glacier ice for gin and tonic.

Seno Pia we went to the western arm to see the Glaciers then anchored in Caleta del Norte for the evening for protective anchorage for future weather protection. We were as snug as bugs in the a rug.

We had an amazing day of food as well, starters for breakfast tapioca made by Tati. For dinner we had TVP burgers, salad with miso dressing and grilled zucchini and eggplant. Life on the water could not get any better. But it does, with us all exhausted from the day, Martin made these amazing Chocolate Banana Pecan Muffins before bed.

Up and ready to go at 7:00 am with clear weather ahead, peaking into the Beagle to check it out

Glacier Holland

Sun coming up over Tierra del Fuego at 8:00 am

Another view of the glacier as we sail westwards

Just an idea of what we saw along the way

in Seno Pia's Western arm approaching the two glaciers

Glacier Sweden to the right

Just a little cold but so worth every minute

The base of the glaciers, this is Picos Azul, so amazing and beautiful. The calving of ice was spectacular

Picos Azul

Amazed and smiling, we are having the time of our lives

Keith is getting the ice and handing off to Martin, get ready for Gin and tonic with millions of years old ice

All smiles

Cheers to the good life on Otra Vida

After our cocktails we move the boat out of the ice flow to our anchorage in Caleta del Norte.

Waterfall right into the anchorage

Caleta del Norte

Photo from the Italian guide of where we are

Fantastic meal, looks like something out of a magazine

Keith and Tati ready to dig in

Here is a quick look into life, as we had it, for 5 weeks in Patagonia on Otra Vida. The trip with Martin and Tati was amazing. We had great chemistry on board and we all helped out together as a unit with daily living. We cannot give a complete run down for everyday as this blog would be exhaustive but here is but a glimpse into a couple journal entries:

Woke to a rainy morning, 24 September, which was fairly warm with a slight chill in the air, waterfalls from all heights spraying water down the mountainside to eventually join a larger waterfall to the lagoon. A cloud hung high over Seno Pia just below the top of the snow capped mountain. We expect rain today and will stay here for the day and evening.

We played Cards Against Humanity and cooked lunch snacks for the afternoon while the cold and wet came with high winds. We set up the water catcher to fill the water tank with freshwater.

After cards, Martin rowed into the opening to secure some fresh ice for Caipirinha. The he made Otra Vida junk food, fried plantains.

Before dinner, Martin and I went on deck to put out a tarp with a hose to the water tank to collect rainwater. It had been raining fairly constant all day and we thought what a great way to collect some water without having to run to the waterfall. We placed a 5 gallon (18.6 liter) jerry can to hold the tarp.

Tati was in charge of the tortilla factory rolling out the dough and Martin fried the tortillas. Fresh tortillas with beans, vegetables, salsa and guacamole for dinner then Searching For Sugarman (movie) to cap off the evening.

Waterfall right near the boat, powerful from all the rain

Ice flow from the Seno coming into the anchorage over night

Looking out to Seno Pia

Martin rowing out to get more ice

Better perspective on where we are and how small we as humans are in this landscape

Martin getting a taste of the Caipirinha and glacier ice

Just before we called it a night on last look before the sunsets

On the 25 September, Keith and I filled the water tanks with Keith rowing to the waterfall for a couple of trips, rolling the rescued rope into their holding areas on board. Tati did clothes and we ran to the waterfall to rinse them out.

It snowed while Keith retrieved the Gerry can of water we lost over the evening from the 40+ winds. The tarp was destroyed but the jerry can was retrievable in the distance. Martin played Let it Snow, Let it Snow, Let it Snow! While I was on deck and Keith was rowing in a snow storm. How funny!!

We had appetizers for snack with mulled wine. Hummus on rye bread, Padizsankrem (eggplant creme) (Hungarian dish) and guacamole with fontina served on homemade rye bread.

Martin showed me how to make mayonnaise from scratch with 2 teaspoons of mustard, a little wine vinegar, vegetable oil. Add white pepper then at the end we add extra virgin olive and salt.

Dinner is spinach paste with cream of spinach sauce and Chardonnay from Argentina.

We watched The Big Lebowski, funny film with Jeff Bridges and John Goodman.

Woke up to ice in the anchorage

Ice coming in from the Seno

Keith rowing out for the jerry can

Some of the flora near the waterfall

Looking back at the anchorage from the waterfall

Amazingly tasty and fresh water, loaded up the jerry cans and filled the water tank onboard

Rinsed out the clothes and hung them on one of the shorelines while finishing getting water

Appetizers with fresh bread

Here is 26 September entry:

We wake early, had our first coffee then Keith rowed the dingy to untie the stern lines while the rest of us pulled the lines, pulled anchor and were ready to move to the Eastern Arm. Keith was at the helm manually taking us in towards the Glacier Romanche then Martin took the helm to bring us closer. We were escorted by Peale's Dolphin on our trip, magnificent site with them on the Port and Starboard sides and the Glacier ahead of us.

I made smoothies with Calafeta Blueberries, Orange, bananas, fig, cashew, dates, chia and coconut with kefier.

Keith was back in the dingy while Martin was at the helm and I handled the stern and bow lines. We settled into Caleta Beaulieu. We are expecting high gusts of wind today. I set the snubber while Keith rowed to set the bow lines to shore. We are set into a small protected cove down from the Glacier Romanche.

Keith finally did it and went for a swim with the water temperature of 1c. Photos taken of the event.

We had canopies for lunch with hummus, eggplant and cream cheese with Merkin (smoky spiced chilly) common to Puerto Natales. Great afternoon of conversation about Shamanism, Peru and the Incas. Experiences personal to each of us.

We played some cards and read our books while listening to great mixes of music. Today was a day to chill while electing not to hike due to the winds and rain. We are here for a couple of days until we have another weather window, this time duck out into the Beagle Channel and head West. We may be able to set the Spinnaker to sail on Saturday, which would be a great treat.

Bolinho de Arroz for snack made by Tati, outstanding and delicious. Plus Martin made falafel. Really good music and conversations tonight.

Distance to Puerto Natales, final destination

Our escort in the Eastern arm of the Seno to Vestiquero Romanche

Cannot believe I capture this scene with an iPhone from the bow

Vestiquero Romanche (Glacier Sweden)

About 50 meters from the glacier

View from Caleta Beaulieu, our anchorage

Caleta Beaulieu, you can see the shoreline

Anchorage looking back at the Seno

Keith wanted to swim and swim he did :)

The water temperature was 1C (33.8F)

Falafels on Otra Vida, cannot believe the delicious treats we are having

The weather appeared good enough for us to do some hiking and each time we take advantage of it. While in the Eastern Arm of Seno Pia the four of us take the dinghy to shore. Martin and Wayne row while Keith gives us direction to the beach since the bow is behind and we cannot see it. We arrive on beach and start to hike. The views are majestic and only the photos can support what we saw (keep in mind the beauty here really cannot be captured in photo).

Martin and Tati beginning the hike up

Our first vista, we thought this was great with the boat and glacier in the distance

The views just keep getting more amazing with each step up

Keith and Wayne selfie, what a view

Otra Vida tucked in

Martin, Keith, Tati and Wayne with Glacier Sweden

Incredible panoramic view of the Seno in the Eastern Arm to the anchorage

Some of the really cool flora we found

Mushrooms grow like crazy in this damp climate

Waterfalls overflowing with all the spring rain and melt

Calafate berries

What the heck, Wayne took a selfie too

Later in the day, Keith and Wayne take the dinghy out for more exploration

Keith and I trekked to the beach beyond the anchorage then walked across the peninsula to the area that juts out towards the Glacier. We found Calafate plants with large red berries and Michay (holly-leafed barberry). We trekked for a couple of hours then back to the boat to make dinner.

The land here is unreal, very alien and spongy. You feel like you are going to sink into quicksand the way it gives and water squishes out of the ground cover. It is like a giant peat bog with waterfalls, carved out rocks and valleys from glaciers that has receded from million of years ago. We many mammals on land most of the trip. Just some sheep the first time and the guanaco (looks like a llama or alpaca). We did not see much bird life on land but while sailing we did see sea birds.

Wayne made TVP stuffed peppers for dinner one night

After spending 5 days in Seno Pia, Western and Eastern Arms, we have a comfortable weather window to take a peek into the channel to see what we really have. The forecast looks good to make some miles.

With the sun rising behind us, dolphin and seal played around us. We head through a channel in the moraine to Channel Beagle heading towards Isla Gordon.

Leaving the Seno

Heading towards Isla Gordon

Seals playing and just bobbing along

The seals (Lobo Marino de dos Pelos, South American fur seal) stayed in a pod bobbing up and down, occasionally lift themselves up for a better look at the strangers passing.

Martin fried eggs sunny side up on rice with salsa, what a way to start another beautiful day in paradise. We had the wind with us and the current against us but maintained between 3-5 knots. Winds generally in the mid to low teens with some gusts to 20-21 knots. Our hearing was to Isla Chair but since the weather was so good, we all agreed to go another 15.5 nautical miles to another anchorage called Puerto Fortuno.

Our approach to our destination has a Channel with rocks, Isla O'Brien to our starboard side and the beginning of Isla Londonderry to our port. Sustained winds coming from the Channel to the right of O'Brien are 23-25 knots with sideways rain. We have 1:57 hours to go to the anchorage. Martin is in the galley preparing Thai curry for lunch Otra Vida style!! Sweet life.

Martin is an amazing cook and we were always stunned at the delicious food we were served. He loves to cook and it comes through in every single morsel.

Beagle Channel

The colours are so vivid here

Thai curry for lunch

After lunch we had another escort of Dolphin, what appeared to be Delfin obscuro (Fitzroys' Dolphin) which criss crossed along the port side, then we saw a rainbow in the distance when this occurred we knew the rains were approaching. We arrived at the anchorage with rain, put out 30 meters of chain. Wayne put the snubber on at 25 meters. After setting the anchor, exhausted from the sail, we all take naps.

Once we were coherent post naps, we played Hand & Foot, Tati and I ended up with the win. We had finger snacks during the card game with assorted cheeses, quince jam, hummus and eggplant with crackers, hot chocolate then Trumpeter Shiraz.

We had an opportunity to watched a movie by Jurgen and Claudia, about building their boat and Northwest Passage. We met Jurgen and Claudia in Ushuaia at Club Nautico. They are an amazing young couple with so much experience. We were honored to watch their two videos. The first about the boat built by them and their voyage through the canals in Europe to the North Sea then Denmark, Sweden and Norway. The second film, their trip from Norway to Greenland then the Northwest Passage, they were the 195th boat to do the Passage. Fantastic photos and incredible life experience traveling the way of Vikings to Alaska. The Voyage film is beautifully photographed akin to National Geographic documentaries we have seen.

This was the trip of a life time to Patagonia, Straits of Magellan, Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn, Chile. We had a wonderful experience and new friendships found with Martin Dixon-Tyrer and Tatiana Gonçales. The comradeship we had during the entire 5 weeks sailing was fantastic. We all worked together as a community and made everything work. We are so thankful to Martin for making this experience one that will last forever in our conversations. Looking forward to sailing with Martin on Otra Vida again. We entered Puerto Natales on 20 October into La Forest anchorage. We had a welcoming from sv Merkava with Mark and Rosie calling us then they came by dinghy with Champagne to greet us and congratulate us on the journey.

We shared in viewing 6 movies and read 7 books together.

Sailing, such beauty and peace

Smoothie breakfast while sailing to Caleta Brecknock

Fishing boat in the Beagle Channel

As journey began from Punta Arenas on Yaghan, the ferry passes us on our starboard side at 11:00 as she heads to Puerto Williams. Our journey continues west today towards Puerto Natales, with hopes of an anchorage in Brecknock.

Tati sitting up near the bow enjoying the first bit of sunshine we have had

Wayne took the helm take the helm and brought us to the opening of Caleta Brecknock from Isla Georgina.

Anchorage Caleta Brecknock

Otra Vida at anchorage with shorelines and anchor out

Wayne and Keith at Caleta Brecknock

View from sunset rock

sun setting behind us

Keith is all smiles, having a great time

Keith's birthday breakfast, poached eggs with spinach and hollandaise. Delicious and beautifully plated.

Champagne birthday toast and cards

Another great rainbow in Patagonia

Wayne grew a beard while away

Getting water at the small waterfall by the boat

Caranca (Kelp Goose) Female is black and male is white

Chimango (falcon)

We were able to sail across Channel Coburn with winds from 19 to 25 knot winds open to the Pacific and crossed with speeds of 6.3 to 7.8 knots. We had swell around 1.5 meters, rain, hail and snow. We entered Channel Barbara with dramatic landscapes to see this wonderful greeting.

After the rain

More rain and another rainbow within a couple of hours

Sunrise at Caleta Gallant, Straits of Magellan, Paso Ingles, peninsula Brunswick.

Caleta Gallant, Straits of Magellan, Paso Ingles, peninsula Brunswick.

It is all about the food too. Just a few things Martin whipped up for us. This is the greatest, most delicious food one to ever wish for while anywhere.