Sunday, October 31, 2021

Global Nomads: 4 Days touring the Columbia River Gorge 16Oct - 20Oct2021

After having dinner with Nancy, Heidi, Kathy and Chandra in Stevenson, WA, we crossed Bridge of the Gods to Oregon. We stopped at Bonneville Hatchery walked around looking at the fish exhibits. We hopped onto the Oregon Historic Highway 30 stopping at Horsetail Falls. According to iOverlander said we can park in the falls trailhead parking areas overnight.


Horsetail Falls

We went Wahkeena Falls next, as Multnomah Falls parking lot was packed. We decided to spend the night at Wahkeena Falls trailhead parking in the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area.


Woke up at 6:30, took our morning hike with coffee to Wahkeena Falls before the crowds. we are touring Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area today.


Lower Wahkeena Falls

Wahkeena Falls


Hiked Multnomah Falls then off to Bridal Veil. We had breakfast at Bridal Veil. We will hike Bridal Veil Falls, after we finish the falls we will go to Auto Zone in Troutdale, OR, since we are still smelling diesel. Hiked to the falls and the interpretive trail along the river, 1.23 miles in total.


Multnomah Falls Visitor Center

Multnomah Falls

Upper Multnomah Falls

Bridal Veil Falls


Latourell Falls then Vista House on CRG, we stopped at Chanticleer Point, Portland Women’s Forum, heading to Troutdale, OR.


Latourell Falls

Vista House 

This viewpoint along highway 30 was the site of the 1916 dedication of the Columbia River Highway, the innovative European-style road that traced a winding path through the perilous Columbia River Gorge, linking Portland to The Dalles.

Vista House opened in 1918 as a glamorous rest stop and observatory for those traveling the new highway. This “comfort station” was a rest stop like no other, featuring marble floors, stained glass windows — and, of course, a stunning view. In the words of The Oregonian, it was “the finishing achievement for the greatest highway in America.” (https://stateparks.oregon.gov)

Crown Point State Scenic Corridor (Columbia River Gorge)


Vista House at Crown Point and view

Portland Women's Forum Viewpoint (view of Crown Point and Vista House)


Leaving Portland Women's Forum Viewpoint we were able to borrow a rachette to repair the hose clamp from AutoZone.  We are hopeful this will stop the diesel smell from the fuel line on the intake.


Keith needed to work on some Craigslist Items and Facebook Marketplace for Gram.


I hiked to Sandy River Bridge into a parking lot after Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area then walked into Troutdale after I crossed the bridge then under to photograph the bridge and Sandy River. Spoke with a local photographer that said the coast will be in full foliage for the trip south to California. 


Sandy River Bridge, Troutdale, OR

Sandy River Bridge
Construction began in 1912 as a part of the building of the Columbia River Highway. Troutdale would be the gateway to the remarkable road, which was the engineering marvel of its day and officially dedicated in 1916. While there were earlier bridges across the Sandy River, they were wooden affairs that did not last long and one apparently crumpled in the night



Keith’s was talking to Gram when I got back and had warmed up our leftovers for lunch, then Heidi, Nancy, Kathy and Chandra found us stopped in the parking lot above Sandy River near Sandy Bridge. It was good to see them again before we start heading to the coast.


Selfie time with Heidi

Selfie with Nancy on the trails 

Chasing foliage in Oregon

We ran to Walmart picked up DEF and groceries, moved to Fred Meyer Grocery Store for the night in Wood Village, OR.


On 18Oct we start to move north westerly towards the coast of OR and WA.  Our check engine light came on and the countdown on restarts.  We made 5 phone calls, no one could take us for the work, most of the dealers were out until 2022 for recall work.  Finally, we spoke to the Sprinter Store in Portland, as a result of speaking with German Formula Auto Repair.  They recommended Jared at The Sprinter Store, he was able to take us in, turned around a drove back to Portland, OR.


We found out that as a result of the warranty work in Knoxville, TN the DEF level sensor part of the heater failures on the Sprinters, causing the need for both to be replaced.


Selfie of the two of us, Columbia River Gorge


We really enjoyed our time along the Columbia River with our friends, Nancy and Heidi lucky we were all in the same place at the same time.  We toured the falls and Columbia River Gorge for 4 days, delayed a day leaving with unforeseen automotive issue.  We are lucky to have had the repairs done and on the road by 16:00 to Astoria, OR.


We traveled 169 miles in total with the return to Tualatin, OR

Our repairs were complete by 16:00, we took 26N to Astoria, OR


 





Saturday, October 30, 2021

Global Nomads: 16 Days Westward We Go, Morgantown, IN to Camas, WA 1Oct - 16 Oct2021

We started the move westward towards our destination of Battery Point Lighthouse, Crescent City, California.  We are confirmed to be the lighthouse keepers for the month of November.  

Battery Point Lighthouse and its museum are located at the foot of Lighthouse Way in Crescent City, California. This is an active lighthouse that serves as a private aid to navigation. Its oil lamps were first lit on December 10, 1856. Lighthouse keepers still reside there. The Battery Point Lighthouse is open to the public for tours which include the opportunity to look into the personal quarters of keepers and their families and at the furniture and artifacts left behind since the 1850’s. Tours include a climb into the light tower. There are displays of many maritime artifacts, photographs, and documents that chronicle its history.

We left Alto, MI to start our journey, first stop Camp Buckwood, Morgantown, IN for a couple of days 274 miles south of Alto. We were met by Ben in the office, we met him in Vitambi Springs in January 2021. Nice to see him again, we walked the park after parking, then spent the rest of the day by the pool and hot tub.

We made it to Camp Buckwood

Our view from Site 21, new pavilion area with salt water pool.  Bucky's Grill is set up near the pool within the enclosure. Fresh water pool, covered area for rainy days. Huge hot tub.

For a camp this size, they have it all.

The permanent guys have made this epic, they all made this an inviting community.

We were here for the Chili Cook-off with 20 different chilis to chose from under the pavilion.  We got to meet a lot of the regulars here, played Rummy Kube, and hung out in the hot tub. We really enjoyed our time at Camp Buckwood, made some new connections and were able to spend some time with Ben. We do plan to come back in the future.

After leaving Camp Buckwood, we started our trek West.  On day 4 of our journey we entered Stacks and Stills National Heritage Area, beautiful rolling hills and farms in Waterloo, IA. We drove along Iowa Scenic Woods By-Way (Y31).

Welcome to Iowa

Monmouth, IA

Bernard, IA

Haystack Sunset, Holstein, IA

Our 6th day on the road since leaving Camp BUCKwood we arrive in Nebraska.  First we stopped in Sioux City, IA at Stone State Park. We grabbed showers in the Campground. We drove to the Stone Lodge and found the Carolyn Benne Nature Trail and hiked 1.04 miles on this interpretative hike with loads of detailed information on the flora and fauna, environmental and geological details.


We hiked the Dakota Point Trail Scenic looking over the Big Sioux River towards South Dakota,  we were on the Lewis & Clark Trail (National Historic Trail) above the Big Sioux River.


We started back towards Sioux City to 29 Loess Hill Scenic By-Pass stopping at the Sergeant Floyd Welcome Center on the barge. The visitors center highly recommended we stop at the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center, really nice exhibit with animatronics of Jefferson, Floyd, Lewis and Clark. 


Stone State Park, Dakota Point Trail Overlook of the Big Sioux River


Stone State Park along the hiking trail

Sergeant Floyd is the Visitor Center and Museum for Sioux City, IA

Sergeant Floyd is a historic museum boat, serving as the Sergeant Floyd River Museum & Welcome Center. Built in 1932 as a utility vehicle and towboat, she is one of a small number of surviving vessels built specifically for the United States Army Corps of Engineers in its management of the nation's inland waterways. The boat has been restored and drydocked, and now houses exhibits about the Missouri River and local tourism information. The Visitor Center is near the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center. We received a lot of information on places of interest in Iowa, Nebraska and South Dakota serving Siouxland (3 cities named Sioux City in 3 states).


We entered Nebraska at 14:30 South Sioux City. We drove on 20w to 12w. We stopped in Newcastle to see the historic area along the OutlawTrail Scenic Byway to Niobrara National Scenic River. Our drive took us Niobrara State Park, part of the Lewis & Clark Trail, the expedition discovered the Niobrara River was not navigable. The park overlooks the confluence of the Niobrara and Missouri Rivers. 


We found a place to boondock for the night in iOverlander at Hastings Family Habitat Complex. We took a 1.38 miles hike along Medicine Creek, we could see the Missouri River, Jones Island and South Dakota. We are parked in the confluence of Medicine Creek, Niobrara and Missouri Rivers beautiful views of the river and creek over to South Dakota.


Niobrara State Park

Hike along Medicine Creek and Missouri before dark

The following morning we woke at sunrise then hiked from Hastings Family Habitat Complex along the Medicine Creek and Missouri to the Niobrara State Park. Took us almost 2.5 hours of walking (4.32 miles). Beautiful morning along the Missouri National Recreation River area easy trek, wet feet and sneakers from the dew and moisture.  We did see one hunter below us when we were on the bluff in the State Park. Beautiful morning hike, dew on the ground and nature all around us, before we left for the Niobrara National Scenic River.


Sunrise along Medicine Creek to the confluence 

Sunrise Medicine Creek

Sun refection on the grass

Missouri River

Medicine Creek, Missouri River Confluence and South Dakota

Niobrara River

Bridge out on the Niobrara River hike


The bridge was partially washed out into the river


Lilac Tasselflower


We continued on US 12, at this point Lewis & Clark Trail that turns into the Outlaw Trail. We saw a Bald Eagle on a fence post, fox crossing the road, snake slithering on the road and many, many cows.  The tapestry of the land is amazing.


On our way to Valentine we stopped at Fort Niobrara National Wildlife Refuge Wilderness Overlook, absolutely beautiful vista of the prairie and Niobrara River. About a mile down US 12 (Outlaw Trail) to enter the preserve.


We drove the loop road around the Prairie and Prairie Dog Town. We did not see any animals since they were moved to winter range.  We did hike the 1 mile loop for Fort Falls then along the swift moving Niobrara River. Moderate hike up hill back to the parking area.



Bald Eagle on fence post

Confluence of Missouri and Niobrara Rivers

Valentine, NE


Keith was not feeling well still, we are in the prairies with a lot of pollen. We went to the Niobrara National Scenic River Visitor Center spoke with the Ranger and watched a 15 minute film on the River. Best time kayak is June and July Monday thru Friday on none Holiday weeks.


We decided to move on to South Dakota up to the Badlands National Park. We left Valentine at 15:01. Taking 83n into South Dakota we entered Rosebud Sioux Tribe Reservation to 18W/ 83N in Mission.  Left on 44W in White River. 81° here.


Topography starts to change in the distance when we were in Long Valley approaching Badlands National Park


We did a COVID19 check entering Wannble, for the protection of native people we were told no stopping in Wannble, Oglala Sioux Tribe Reservation. We arrived in Badlands National Park entered the Cedar Pass Campground at 16:41 taking site 89.  What a great spot, love it. The landscape around us is surreal, we both had huge smiles on our faces looking around us.


Beautiful way to be introduced to Badlands

Badlands National Park, Cedar Pass Campground vista

We found a place to settle for the night within this gorgeous location


We were able to get the grille out and eat outdoors


Badlands National Park is remarkable and other worldly.  We did several hikes in different locations exploring this park. We spent 2 nights at Cedar Pass Campground, wonderful experience.  After stopping at the Visitor’s Center we stopped at Cliff Shelf Trail .25 miles, stopped for hikes on The Notch 1.3 miles, The Door 1.0 miles and The Window Trail 0.3 miles for a combined 2.6 miles.


Sunrise Badlands National Park

Storm passing at sunrise

Just before we went out the flares appeared

Cliff Shelf Trailhead, first stop

View from the Cliff Shelf Trail Hike

Bird houses under the eaves of the parking lot shelter

The Notch Trail vista

Keith on the Door Trail

At the Door Trail

The Window trail

Keith at the Window

View of the canyon

Sitting on a Pinnacle above the canyon

Window trail

Blue skies during this hike

We made it to the top of the Window

Amazing views no matter where we are


Another beautiful hike

\
Following the trail and climbing up and down


We had lunch then proceeded to the Badlands Scenic Byway Loop Road. We stopped at Saddle Pass Trail for a hike, strenuous short hike uphill on loose gravel. Caused slippery situations with gravel. Completed hike of 0.5 in 34:26.  Worth the exertion to climb to the top and come out on prairie lands, flat area. We did Fossil Trail 0.3 trail for total of 3.4 miles.


Saddle Pass is a short trail that climbs up the Badlands Wall to a view over the White River Valley. The trail ends where it connects with the Castle and Medicine Root Loop trails. Despite being one of the shorter trails in the park, Saddle Pass is one of the steepest, with approximately 300 feet of elevation change.


Saddle Pass

Looking down into the pass

Medicine Root Loop Trail 

Fossil Pass 

We started the Badlands Loop Road stopping at some of the overlooks and view points, but when we got to the Panoramic vista a strong wind storm let loose heavy rain and pea to quarter size hail.  We returned to the campground which was lower elevations fast as we could to out run this powerful storm.


We saw one big horn sheep, a few chipmunks and white tail deer.  Gorgeous day and lots of fun, Keith still congested but a good sport to still do the hikes (as he said a once in a lifetime experience).


Cedar Pass Campground sunrise

Badlands sunrise


We broke camp while the sun was rising to get as much traveling done to beat the cold Arctic weather coming to the Pacific Coast.  We retraced our prior journey from the day before through Dillon Pass and stopped at the Panoramic Vista.

Badlands sunrise in Dillon Pass

Big Horn Sheep female and two kids

Badlands Loop State Scenic Byway

We took the Sage Creek Rim Road, dirt road that goes through the Badlands, Sage Creek Wilderness Area and Buffalo Gap National Grasslands truly a beautiful experience going through the wilderness with hardly anyone else around.

We saw so many Prairie Dog towns along the way on both sides of the road.  You just have to stop and watch this comical little guys.


Curious little guys right off the road

We continued our journey westerly on 44 stopping in Rapid City for the night, we had dinner at Sickies Garage, a converted mechanics garage to restaurant.  We boondocked in Cabela's for the evening.  

Buffalo Gap National Grasslands

Beautiful views, foliage changing to autumn colours

We are 11 days into our journey west, after checking the weather in the morning we knew we had to move west quickly as an Arctic Blast was coming across.  We decided to go to Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse through Black Hills National Forest, then scurry through WY and Nevada staying further south as we could without  getting into 12" of snow and freezing weather.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial

As one drives into the Black Hills, a region considered sacred by its original residents, who were displaced by settlers, loggers, and gold miners—the roadside attractions offer a vision of American history that grows only more uncanny. (taken from The New Yorker) Quoting this has significant historical merit, regardless of the idyllic symbolism of this memorial but also the lack of respect for the original people of this country.

Crazy Horse Memorial was remarkable, the artifacts and history for the preservation of culture of the original people of North America.  This is a memorial to the spirit of Crazy Horse and his people, designed by Korczak Ziolkowski.  Ziolkowski is the descent of Polish descents, he was born in Boston in 1908. He was invited to the Black Hills after gaining recognition in the 1939 World's Fair for his work.

The monument is meant to depict Tasunke Witko, best known as Crazy Horse, the Oglala Lakota warrior famous for his role in the resounding defeat of Custer and the Seventh Cavalry at the Battle of the Little Bighorn and for his refusal to accept, even in the face of violence and tactical starvation, the American government’s efforts to confine his people on reservations. 

Crazy Horse

We left Custer to start a 12 hour drive through WY to Rock Springs on interstate 80. We saw two pronghorn Antelope, several Big Horn Sheep, Buffalo and cattle. We are trying to beat the winter storms coming across the mountains of WY and northern UT to enter southeastern OR in the flatlands.

Route 16W before we entered Wyoming

Foliage making its appearance in the Black Hills

We saw so much wildlife when we entered Jewel Cave National Monument, big Horn Sheep on the side of 16W. Checked the weather and looked at the temperature real time on the dashboard.  We have dropped from 63° to 43° in Wyoming, it has gotten cloud covered with really ugly winds knocking us around.

We made it into WY, 11Oct21

Large herd of Ta’Tanka, Buffalo in Lakota

Driving down the highway

Foliage and sunset along the highway


It was incredible to imagine we continued to climb in elevation Lamont elevation 6622ft. In the Great Divide Basin we crossed the Continental Divide elevation 7,000 ft. We have now crossed the Continental Divide from East/West and North/South. We stopped for the night in Rock Springs, WY to sleep for the night.  The winds were howling and we were able to get some supplies.


Snow capped mountains

Great Basin National Park from I80 near Wells, NV

The weather became a significant factor in our travel west through WY, UT and NV. We saw high wind alerts, 40+ mph, we were pushed sideways a few times but continued our way along I80 west.  Temperatures continued to fall, making it unfavorable to stop in UT and NV. We also had a small diesel fuel leak, the generator and furnace would not work in these elevations. So no heat.


We entered snow covered hills of UT with high winds across the Great Salt Lake and Great Salt Desert. Once in NV we stopped to get information on the weather and conditions of the roads at the Visitor Center in West Wendover, NV. We will be entering OR from Route 140 into Southeastern OR just over the state-line and lower elevation out of the mountains. She did warn about the switchbacks and lack of guardrails in OR, we found that NV did not have them either.


We entered Nevada on 12Oct in the cold

Scenic Nevada along SR95

West Wendover, Nevada

Shoshone Range, West Wendover

Switchback railway in West Wendover, NV

The drive was hair raising, we were trying to get out of the cold but, more so, away from snow and freezing pavements.


Winnemucca, NV



Traveling on Denio Highway 140N to Denio at sunset.  We entered Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge when we turned onto NV 140. We had crossing signs for antelope and cattle.


We pull off the road staying over night in Charles Sheldon National Wildlife Refuge off NV 140N. Keith found it in Google maps as “Sheldon National Antelope Refuge”. 


Taking 140 from Nevada to Crescent City, CA was on our last itinerary depending on weather in Oregon


We woke up to high winds and a snow flurry at 3:25 am, we put on the ceramic heater, started coffee and prepared to leave NV.  The Arctic Blast has hit, we have warning signs for antelope, horses and donkey on this very curvy road with switchbacks, downgrade changes with no guardrails.  Quite the wild ride in the dark.


At 4:12 we entered Oregon at milepost 110 and speed change from 70mph to 55mph. Oregon mile marker 65. The Lake District. We did an 8 degree downgrade in the dark with left side fall off and no guardrails for 4 miles. Good thing the roads weren’t wet and temps increased from 30° to 42°.


It started snowing before the next downgrade of 7% for 6 miles around mile marker 43. Entered Fremont Winema National Forest at 6:00 on OR 140. Warner Summit 5800 elevation.  We stopped within 300ft of our turn with junction 395/140 to sleep at 6:30, we were exhausted from getting up so early, the stressful drive in the dark, downgrade travel and cliffs off the sharp turns.


We woke two hours later, got back on the road. We continued on to Klamath Falls, decided to pull off the road to Stevenson Park off 140 on Lost River to grab lunch.


Bonanza, Klamath County, Oregon

Stevenson Park, Lost River

Break for lunch at Stevenson Park off OR 140

We spoke with Jonnie Dale Lieberman, a fellow alum of s/v Lungta, she lives in Ashland, OR and invited to stop over before we started heading north on I5 towards Portland.  She gave us tips on places to see as we made our way towards here home in the hills around Ashland.


Pull off for the Applegate Trail 

We stopped at The Applegate Trail - Southern Route of the Oregon Trail, In 1846 Jesse and Lindsay Applegate, together with Leon Scott, headed a party to locate a less dangerous route to the Willamette Valley. Rather than bring families, oxen, and wagons over the Blue Mountains and along the daunting Columbia, the new route would lead emigrants through the southern mountains of the Cascade Range. The road that Scott and the Applegates built went through Nevada desert, passed Goose Lake, Tule Lake, and Lower Klamath Lake at the California-Oregon border, crossed the Cascades into the Rogue River Valley, then headed north toward the pioneers’ destination.


We stayed in the RV overnight at Jonnie's home, we spent the morning outdoors socially distancing, have super interesting conversation.  We left for destination towards our friends, Nancy Gilliom and Heidi Wasson, who are in Portland for a couple of weeks.  We are excited to make our way towards them and spend a couple of days together.


Enjoying the sun, spending the morning with Jonnie


Roseberg, OR off I5 north


Yoncalla, OR view from I5


Prior to meeting up with Nancy and Heidi we were having an issue with the right front tire, made an appointment at Discount Tire in Eugene.  We found a really nice LGBTQ+ owned restaurant, called Mandy's Family Restaurant. The food was amazing, takeout services. 


We met Nancy, Heidi at the trailhead Lacamas Creek Loop Trail in Camas, WA on the Columbia River, hiking 5.99 miles.  Nice to see their smiling faces, Heidi came running arms wide open for a huge hug.  Warm greetings from the both of them.  The hike was fantastic, the trail was easy to follow.  We met Kathy, who was here visiting from San Diego. We had an enjoyable moderate hike then went to lunch in Camas for lunch at Feast 316.


Kathy, Nancy, Heidi and Keith on the trail

Fall foliage and water vapors coming off the ground

Lacamas Creek Falls

Nancy, Heidi, Wayne and Keith reunited

Lacamas Creek


Beacon Rock

Lacamas Creek Upper Falls

Chasing foliage along the Columbia River Gorge

We met up with the girls for a hike on the Washington side of the Columbia River at Hardy Falls and Pool of the Winds Falls trail Hamilton Mountain, Beacon Rocks State Park, North Bonneville, WA. Hiked Beacon Rock Trail in Beacon Rock SP with Nancy, Heidi, Kathy and Chandra.


Keith, Kathy, Heidi, Chandra and Nancy


Keith on the hike up Beacon Rock

Switchbacks walking up and returning down

Columbia River Gorge and Oregon from Beacon Rock

Fall in the Columbia River Gorge

Sunflares when we got to the bottom

After the hike we ate lunch at Red Bluff Tap House in Stevenson, WA. Steak Street Tacos and Fish & Chips. We had a great time with Heidi and Nancy hiking and seeing them.

2,551 miles from Morgantown, IN to Ashland, OR

308 miles Ashland, OR to Camas, WA

We had an awesome time meeting friends along the way.  We did have to rush through WY, UT and NV but we have states to go back to tour.  We have traveled 2,859 miles during this trip.