We travelled 16 days at sea towards Rapa Nui (Easter Island or Isla da Pascua), the winds were behind us pushing us to our destination. For the first time, we experienced true trade wind sailing, thoroughly enjoying every minute.
Keith and I slept in the bow cabin (V-bunk), me mostly and without getting any seasickness. Keith did use Sea-bands sometimes. We were able to get complete sound sleep and rest. The shifts were nice to experience, never grueling or overwhelming. The as always is fantastic with three of us sharing the responsibility, but mostly Martin. Unfortunately we lost some of our fresh vegetables during the passage due to spoilage, we believe much of the produce we bought at the farmer's market in Valdivia may have been refrigerated.
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| Sunset over the South Pacific |
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| Consu and Martin ready to have Lunch / Dinner or as we call it Linner |
We took the opportunity during our sail to heave two and take a swim in the open Pacific and just relax. It is quite amazing to be able to swim and bath in the middle of the Pacific Ocean.
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| Consu and I swimming for the first time in the open Pacific |
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| Beautiful day sailing, Trade Wind sailing |
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| Keith and I swimming, our second chance to swim in open water. |
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| Sunset and Moonrise over the Ocean |
We arrived in Rapa Nui on 20 March, we were all psyched to be arriving here, especially after our first passing glimpse of Tongariki (15 standing moai).
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| The sky was beautiful on the morning of our arrival. |
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| Looking at Rapa Nui as we approach |
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| It's mystical in so many ways |
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| Tongariki in the distance |
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| Consu and Keith looking at Rapa Nui as we round the island towards Hanga Roa |
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| We have arrived, 2,500 nautical miles sailed |
If anyone ever has an opportunity to see Rapa Nui (Easter Island) do not miss it. The culture, people and history are magical and worth the experience. This has been a life changing event, we have met many local Rapa Nui people. The friendship given here is from the heart, honest and beautiful. We were assisted by local fishermen into the harbor in Hanga Roa due to high swell and waves, we met Julito who helped to connect us with Teva’s sister, Lya and her family, Leonardo from La Bar has shared so much information about the Rapa Nui people and his family history.
We made our pilgrimages when in town to Mikcafé for ice cream, the Rapa Nui Cafe for cakes and coffee, shopping for groceries La Costecha (run by a man from Italy originally). Every time we went into La Costecha we are met with smiles and greetings, sometimes the owner/manager would come out just to say hello, sometimes he came out with mangoes in his hands offering them to us. Life here is amazing, easy and freeing.
We have spent time with Leonardo of La Bar, laundry, his family comes from generations of Polynesian heritage coming here from the Tuamotu Islands. He is full of life and embraces his ancestry sharing the story of his people. Leonardo always greets us with history of the Rapa Nui people, he told us the story of his families journey to the island. Fantastic information about the culture and heritage. Rapa Nui is a UNESCO World Heritage site for the preservation of the historical monuments and cultural heritage.
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| Hanga Roa, we are anchored in the bay |
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| Looking from the boat at Ahu Tahai |
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| Sunsets here are never to be missed |
The Tahai Ceremonial Complex is an archaeological site on Rapa Nui (Easter Island) in Chilean Polynesia. Restored in 1974 by the late Dr. William Mulloy, an American archaeologist, Tahai comprises three principal ahu from north to south: Ko Te Riku (with restored eyes), Tahai, and Vai Ure.
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| Tahai Ceremonial Complex, part of the Rapa Nui National Park (UNESCO World Heritage Site) |
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| Ko Te Riku stands above the ancient harbor |
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| Tahai looking toward Hanga Roa |
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| Hanga Roa Bay and village in the distance |
We have circumnavigated the island a couple of times depending on the swell and winds. This island is has an incredible magnetic field offering us the ability to become a part of the island, to see so much from the water and on land. Every evening and early morning views of the Milky Way and stars with no light pollution. The new moon brought another gift of crescent moonlight and new moon on the water lighting up the boat.
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| Hanga Nui Bay off of Tongariki at sunset |
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| Tongariki, whose name refers to easterly winds, is located on the eastern end of the south coast of Easter Island in a land of great scenic beauty with Rano Raraku volcano nearby. We spent the night in the bay looking at this spiritual place. |
Tongariki was the sociopolitical and religious center of Hotu Iti, one of the two great clans that grouped the tribes of the eastern sector of the island. The first human occupation dates from the year 900 AD. and it is related to the first phase of a first ahu.
Next day we moved to Anakena for better anchorage with more protection from the wind and swells.
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| Emma and Martin enjoying hammock time |
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| Anakena anchorage off the beach |
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| Keith and Martin walking on the beach |
Anakena is considered the cradle of history and culture of Easter Island. It was here that the first king of the island, the Ariki Hotu Matu’a, landed with his men and established the first populated center that gave birth to the Rapa Nui culture.
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| Keith and Martin look at the 7 moai of Ahu Nau Nau |
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| At the foot of Mount Maunga Hau Epa, is the Ahu Ature Huki with Hanga Mori o One Bay. |
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| Otra Vida and Zingaro anchored in this small bay named Hanga Mori o One, also called Hanga Rau Ariki or Kings Bay |
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| Zingaro drone photo of Otra Vida, Nanaku and Zingaro at Hanga Mori o One Bay |
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| View from Maunga Pu'i towards Ovahe |
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| Keith with Emma on Pu'i |
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| View from Pu'i towards Rano Raraku |
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| Looking down Maunga Pu'i where the banana log race takes place, we met the 2019 Winner (Eduardo) when he picked us up from Anakena and dropped us off at the bottom of Pu'i |
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| Banana Tree at the top of Pu'i looking toward Anakena |
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| Sunset at Anakena with Otra Vida and Zingaro |
We have become friends with two boats while here, Nanaku is Captained by Marta. It is a local charter boat for tours around the island and sunset cruises. She reached out to us when we arrived and invited us to share drinks and snacks on board. On Zingaro, James and Kim, are very cool people. We have shared movie night on their catamaran trampoline and all cuddled under blankets to keep warm against the cool night breeze, meals together and touring the island in a rental car for a day.
On Easter Sunday, Patty (Martin’s partner) left after spending a week with us on board. She is fabulous, she is always smiling and charming. We had chocolate fondu on Easter Sunday with gin and tonics, fresh lemons with Marta and her boyfriend, José. James and Kim joined afterwards to complete the mix of our little community in Hanga Roa Bay. Keith and I never got off the boat all day, just spent time with Marta, José, James and Kim while Martin brought Patty to the airport. The moon was full this weekend and the brightness brought us all joy for new beginnings.
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| Keith and I went to shore when we arrived at Tongariki our second time in the bay. |
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| Ahu Tongariki with volcano Poike in the background |
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Tongariki was the sociopolitical and religious center of Hotu Iti, one of the two great clans that grouped the tribes of the eastern sector of the island. The first human occupation dates from the year 900 AD. and it is related to the first phase of a first ahu. Taken at sunset.
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| Tongariki in the shadow of another setting sun on Rapa Nui |
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| Rano Raraku is a volcanic crater formed of consolidated volcanic ash or tuff, which compose the carved moai. Indeed, nearly half (hundreds) of the moai are still buried in the slopes of the Rano Raraku, the main moai quarry. With Tongariki in front of it along the bay. |
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| Patty, Martin and Emma with the central platform, whose axis is oriented to the rising sun of the summer solstice, measures almost 100 meters long and with its wings or original lateral extensions reached a total length of 200 meters. During the last final phase of construction of the ceremonial altar, Ahu Tongariki held 15 moai, which made it the platform with the largest number of images of the whole island. |
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| Keith and Wayne at Ahu Tongariki |
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| Keith giving the "Traveling Moai" a kiss |
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Outer slopes of Rano Raraku with many moai, some half-buried, some left still "under construction" near the mountain.
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Ahu Tongariki with volcano Poike in the background and the nearby "Traveling Moai" in the foreground.
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| Standing moai on the slopes of the quarry |
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| Hundreds of these moai are scattered throughout the quarry |
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| Keith looking at one of the largest moai under construction in the quarry |
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| Looking toward Tongariki from the quarry, we are in the middle of a rain storm |
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'Tukuturi' kneeling moai in the quarry
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We rented a car during Patty's visit, Zingaro joined us to tour some of the island. We have a really great time together. Here is a glimpse into the day.
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| Rano Kau volcano |
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| The large lagoon about a kilometer and a half in diameter whose shore is located about 200 meters from the upper edge. The surface of the lake, whose depth is estimated at about 10 meters, is covered to a large extent by numerous floating islands of totora reeds, which have a thickness of only one meter, which makes them very unstable. |
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| Keith above the lagoon of Rano Kau |
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| Wayne above Rano Kau |
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A thousand meters from the cliffs of Rano Kau are three islets Motu Kao Kao (“sharp island”), Motu Iti (“small island”) and Motu Nui (“large island”) can be seen.
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| Kim and James from Zingaro |
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| Wayne and Keith at Orongo |
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The first King Hotu Matu’a chose the southeast side of the crater to spend his last days after his wife Vakai passed away. When he felt his death approaching, Hotu Matu’a went to the sacred site of Orongo. The ceremonial village of Orongo, in the south of the park, is considered to be among the most spectacular archaeological sites in the world. It is perched on a narrow ridge, with the crater of the Rano Kau volcano on one side and cliffs that fall 300 meters to the sea on the other. Orongo contains dozens of petroglyphs and stone houses dating from the Huri-Moai period of Easter Island’s history (c. 1680–1867). The self-contained, dry-laid houses featuring sod roofs were built into the topography of the site. The ceremonial center of Mata Ngarau in Orongo, center of the Tangata Manu (Birdman) cult that succeeded the moai culture, was the site for the annual games that represented the transfer of power between competing clans.
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| Vinapu I or Tahira, located to the left of the route, there are six fallen statues face down with three of the pukao that topped them. Its orientation, as in many other platforms on the island, is related to the position of the stars, and in this case it is directed east of the winter solstice. The theory that states that Vinapu was built by the Inca Tupac Yupanqui during his expedition to the Pacific. |
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| Wayne and Keith at Vinapu with the anchorage in the background |
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| Keith, James, Patty, Martin, Wayne, Kim and Emma at Vinapu |
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We were walking to Ana Te Pahu and saw this lovely view before us
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| Keith inside Ana Te Pahu |
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| Wayne inside Ana Te Pahu |
Ana Te Pahu, located on the foothill of the Maunga Terevaka, is the largest cavern (lava tube) on the island. One of the main chambers of Ana Te Pahu was used as a water reservoir, since the frequent precipitations, typical of the subtropical climate, filter through the rock and accumulate in the interior.
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| One of the most spacious caves in the island, is part of a large underground complex. This kind of cave was used as water storage in the past, because rain filtered through the ground and accumulated on the floor, especially during rainy season. Some important edible and useful plants, such as maika (banana tree), mahute, and taro among them grow abundantly since prehistoric times due to inner humidity and wind protection. |
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| Kim and James at the end of Ana Te Pahu |
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Ahu Akivi is located in a territory associated with the powerful Miru clan, one of the highest-ranking tribes.
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| Ahu Akivi are the only statues that look at the sea of the whole island, these seven statues of the platform are related with the seven young people who were sent to explore the island before its first colonization by King Hotu Matu’a. |
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| Wayne and Keith at Ahu Akivi |
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| A storm is brewing at the end of our day at Ahu Akivi |
We had the opportunity to go diving while in Easter Island. We went to Mike Rapu Diving Center next to Mikafé. We took our scheduled dive with Tomas. We dove 18 meters with me buddying up with Tomas and Keith with Martin. We started by going through a coral cave into lave tube ravine at Manavai. We saw many different coral and fish while diving. At the end of the dive we saw an eel and went up another coral cave to the top. The dive was crystal clear and a lot of fun.
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