Thursday, October 4, 2018

Home Free Global Nomads Edition Four: 21Sep to 1Oct 2018 United Kingdom

We spent the day riding bicycles to Angermunde See on 20Sep to the naturist beach, looks like the last summer day in Dūsseldorf. We rode bikes from the flat 15 miles there then 15 miles back in strong winds coming off the Rhine on our return trip. Beautiful warm day at Angermunde See.

rural bike path route to Angermunde See in Kaiserswerth
We returned to the flat exhausted, showered then packed our bags, had nachos then went to bed by 21:30.

Fri: 21Sep

We were both anxious about our trip to the U.K. to see our friends, Mark & Neil in Brockworth.  We are up and ready by 6:30 then walked to the FlixBus at Worringer Strasse. This trip would take us through 5 countries (Germany, The Netherlands, Belgium, France and England). 

After exiting the European Union at  French Customs, we approach entry for the U.K. once everyone is onboard we approach this long railway looking car and entered it with all other cars, trucks and buses.  We left from Coquilles-des-Calais and emerged in Folkestone, UK. We exited following all the traffic in different cars and proceeded to the route to London.

We are on the Flixbus exiting the Eurotunnel (Chunnel) on the British Side

Long day no food stops, only stops to pick up and drop-off passengers. We made it to Victoria Coach Station and walked up the street a couple of blocks to Victoria Train Station and Underground. Secured our tickets for the Underground and Train to Gloucester. Took District line Earl’s Court then took Underground eastbound to Paddington Train Station. When we arrived at Paddington Train Station we find our original train is cancelled and will be an our later at 20:45. 

Paddington Train Station
We stopped at Burrito for dinner and a place to sit. Wonderful orchestra band playing in the Station.

We secure details from the GWR agent, who stamps our standard ticket for access to the next train.  We have reservations for Coach F, but due to the change in train this particular longer train has Coach E and Coach G with no 'F'. Conductor on the platform checks and tells us to get into Coach E, First Class Coach.  We explain the circumstances to the attendant that we were told by a Conductor to take this coach and she stated stay here, tells others they must move to Standard seating.  This was here last train before going home to Bristol.  When she asked our destination we were advised for the first time we had to change in Swindon. 

We made it to Gloucester as Neil pulled into the parking lot, smiling and a warm hug greeting us. Once we arrived in Brockworth is was so nice to see Mark, who was making a lovely dinner for us.

Sat: 22Sep

We spent the day in, rained heavily all day. Judy took us with here to the market and we went to Costa Coffee.

View from the house to the fields behind
Gardens and yard for entertaining and dogs
Keith wrapped up, while Treasure and Lottie relax
Purchased our tickets for bus to Victoria Coach Station then to Arundel train from Victoria Station for 28Sep today online.

Tonight we had plans to  have dinner at Pizza Express before walking across the road to the Cheltenham Town Hall for the Cheltenham Comedy Festival Finale. Headlined by comedy legend Reginald D Hunter and featuring Lou Conran, Evelyn Mok, Jonathan Mayor and compered by Keith Farnan. Loads of laughs and great comedy. 

Cheltenham Town Hall theatre
Next couple of days were relaxing for us. We spent the day at the house, Andrew & Andrew came over for dinner and cards one day. We did things around the kennel to help out changing a smoke detector and finding the failed unit, looking at the roof of the house, picking vegetables, relaxing with Mark and Neil, playing cards and chatting. We went to see Julia and the grand-baby, Cassie for a couple of hours, then we were off for Vegan Dinner in Stroud at the Crown & Sceptre.  Neil's life long friends all get together there weekly for a fun time.

We took a trip to the Great Witcombe Roman Villa ruins, beautifully preserved ruins with glorious views of the valley.

The remains of this large and luxurious Roman villa lie in a peaceful setting near the Cotswold Way. Once at the heart of a large country estate, the villa was built about AD 250, and lived in until the 5th century. The remains include a bathhouse complex and perhaps the shrine of a water spirit. Mosaic pavements (preserved within a modern building) hint at the villa’s opulence in Roman times.
The remains include a bathhouse complex and perhaps the shrine of a water spirit along the back of the Estate. Water can still be heard flowing, preserved walls and floors of the Roman Villa  at Great Witcombe.
Enchanting Valley view from the Roman Villa
Perfect day to tour the area, another view from the Roman Villa
The Cooper’s Hill Cheese-Rolling competition takes its name from the hill outside of Gloucester, England, where it is held each spring. The rules are simple. A 9-pound, round Double Gloucester cheese is rolled down the hill given a one-second head start to the players who chase it down the hill. Every year locals tumble 650 feet down to the bottom of the hill chasing a Double Gloucester cheese.
We did not see the event but went to the hill which slopes drastically, with a Double Gloucester Cheese roll reaching high speeds coming down hill, unlikely someone could catch it.  

Shab Hill has fantastic views of the Cotswolds out towards Wales, know by locals as Shag Hill.

Tues: 25Sep

We packed ‘Sunny’, the camper for a day trip to Wales. We travelled through the Forest of Dean, entered Wye Valley then Monmouth, then we started seeing Welsh signs.  Perfect weather for the trip, sunshine and warmth.

Mark and Keith in the back of the camper as we drive to Wales
First stop Castell Rhaglan (Raglan Castle) ruins, scenic panoramas and farmland. We had lunch here then stopped at a Farm stand for eggs and veggies.  

Raglan Castle is stately and handsome, is perhaps deceptive, it was to show off wealth not for defense. Mainly a 15th century product of social aspiration as it was of military necessity. 

It was begun by Sir William ap Thomas (aka the blue knight of Gwent), a veteran of the French wars, who grew wealthy through exploiting his position as a local agent of the duke of York in south-east Wales. About 1435 he began building the Great Tower, subsequently known as the Yellow Tower of Gwent, probably on the site of a much earlier Norman motte-and-bailey castle. Surrounded by a water-filled moat, the unusual hexagonal plan of the tower, together with its elaborate drawbridge arrangements, are more easily paralleled in France than in Britain. Within, there was a single large room to each floor, and the entire structure echoed the power and influence of its builder.

Castell Rhaglan (Raglan Castle) ruins, bridge and Gatehouse entrance. The double towers make up the front facade.
The west side of the Stone Pitched Court, with the Great Hall and oriel window
Keith, Mark, Neil and Wayne within the ruins of Raglan Castle in the  Stone Pitched Court  facing the Gatehouse Towers
Panoramic from the Great Keep over the Valley
Great Tower looking towards the kitchens in the back of the castle
Wayne and Keith on the Great Tower looking over the valley
Mark, Neil, Keith and Wayne  on the Great Tower 
Raglan Castle from the Great Staircase and Fountain Court
The Great Hall is the finest and most complete of the castle's surviving apartments. A plaque over the dais in the hall bears the distinctive arms of the third earl of Worcester, as Knight of the Garter. Viewing the Great Tower from the apartments, you can see a finely carved shield and badge over the first floor chamber, a good example of the castle's surviving detail. The Long Gallery has been called one of the finest rooms of Tudor rebuilding in Britain.

Gargoyles along the towers 
Two full length figures may have been part of a fireplace
The Castle grounds within the moat
Raglan Castle and fortifications
Raglan Castle is one of the last true castles to be built in Wales. Its construction began in the 1430s by Sir William ap Thomas, the Blue Knight of Gwent who fought at the Battle of Agincourt with King Henry V in 1415. He was responsible for building the Great Tower at Raglan, which became known as the Yellow Tower of Gwent. After the death of Sir William ap Thomas he son took over the building of this fine British Castle and home of Henry Tudor.  Henry Tudor spent his childhood at Raglan Castle, the home of William Herbert, a leading Yorkist – a castle which was an important centre of Welsh cultural activity. Following the murder of Henry VI and his son, Edward, in 1471, Henry Tudor became a figure of importance for he was, as Edward IV put it, ‘the only imp now left of Henry VI’s brood’.

If you decide to come to Wales, Raglan Castle is a must visit along your path.

Found this gem while driving to Brecon Beacons Motor Coach Park. Crickhowell Castle, also known as Alisby's Castle,  was built by the Normans. It is thought that it begun life as a motte and bailey castle with timber buildings in the 12th century, then in 1272 it was rebuilt in stone by Sir Grimbald Pauncefote.

Crickhowell Castle is a prominent feature of the small market town of Crickhowell. Once a mighty stronghold, it had commanding views along the Usk Valley.

Stayed overnight at a Brecon Beacons Motor home site. Played several games of ‘Oh, Hell’ until the sunset. We moved into the ‘Sunny’ for dinner and some Little Britain.

Wed: 26Sep

We took back roads from the campground past Pentyn and Pontsticll Reservoirs into the Brecon Beacon National Park as we made our way to Tintern. Had lunch at Tintern Abbey. We could not have had better weather for our trip to Wales.

Narrow roads ‎⁨in Brecon Beacons National Park⁩, ⁨Talybont-on-Usk⁩
Talybont Reservoir is the largest stillwater reservoir in the central Brecon Beacons
‎⁨Brecon Beacons National Park⁩, ⁨Talybont-on-Usk⁩ open ranges for  livestock, the highest point in South Wales.
Pontsticill Reservoir or Taf Fechan Reservoir  lies within the Brecon Beacons National Park and Fforest Fawr Geopark
Neil driving and Wayne co-piloting through the Brecon Beacons

Newland
Newland
Hewlsfield Common
Wye River and Wye River Valley, Tintern Parva, Wales
Another high point in the Wales trip was Tintern Abbey, fantastic architecture still remains, though King Henry VIII had the stained glass smashed and lead removed from the roof, causing the roof to collapse in.

Walter fitzRichard de Clare, the Norman Lord of Chepstow, donated the land to the Cistercian order in the year 1131.  Monks from the order moved to the area from L’Aumone in north-central France shortly thereafter.  The first buildings at Tintern Abbey were built starting around five years later in 1136.

From 1269 the new church grew up around the old Norman church like an outer shell, allowing the monks to continue to worship in the old church until the newer one was finished. 

Approaching Tintern Abbey first sighting from our direction West Window
West Window facade


The abbey buildings were arranged in a standard Cistercian plan, except that the cloisters and all its ancillary buildings were to the north of the church rather than to the south. Priory kitchen 

The Great West Window - the glory of Tintern, this beautiful traceried window has seven lights, rising to three circular occuli, or 'eyes'

Keith and Wayne standing on the Night Stairs with the priory in the background

Neil, Mark, Keith and Wayne selfie at Tintern Abbey
The Anchor Inn
Upon returning to Brockworth we unloaded the camper, got showers, then played cards after dinner. Neil joined when he returned from squash with Ben.

Thurs: 27Sep 

We stayed at the house today to spend time with Mark and Neil, as Neil was running the kennels today. Went to lunch in Nettleton Bottom at The Golden Heart. We enjoyed a lovely lunch outdoors behind the Inn on a beautiful warm fall day. 

The Golden Heart, which dates from c.1540, was originally in the middle of a row of three cottages but the pub has gradually expanded into the neighbouring properties. The Cotswold stone buildings have hardly changed at all in the last one hundred years

Cozy elegance takes you back in time with food from present. Serving vegan and vegetarian  dishes  with creativity.
Our view of the Inn from our picnic table.
Mark, Keith and Wayne took Lottie for a walk to Tesco picked up some groceries and coffee at Costa before we returned to the house. Casual walk back completes our day. Our visit was too short with Mark & Neil but we always can go back for another trip.


Fri: 28Sep 

Mark made poached eggs for breakfast with beans and mushrooms. Up early to catch National Express bus from Gloucester Coach Station to Victoria Coach Station for the first leg to Arundel.

Craig met us at Victoria Coach Station since he works close to the Station and walked with us to Victoria Train Station. He wanted to make sure we were comfortable and will see us tonight in Chichester at the theatre. Craig Thomas will meet us at Arundel Station when we arrive. 

Craig Thomas met us at Arundel Station as planned, we stopped in town for some groceries before heading to the house, relaxed with tea and delicious cake before heading off to Chichester to the theater to see the production 'Cock' (https://www.cft.org.uk/whats-on/event/cock). Sexual identity questions, the end of the play is like a 'cockfight'. The production is a must see, this was theatre in the round with no props, acting was first class and emotions were high.


First glimpse of Arundel in 40 years.  We stopped at the Co-op.
A church existed here even before the Norman Conquest, and although nothing now remains of that Anglo-Saxon church.  Since the Dissolution of the Monasteries, "Boxgrove Priory" has served as the Parish Church of Boxgrove.
Typically constructed with flint on the exterior walls are found in Sussex.
The interior of the Priory is an example of Norman (Romanesque) and Early English (Gothic) architecture. Until its dissolution in 1536, Boxgrove Priory was a monastic institution with a double church.  French influence along the Sussex coast. Its crossing is a mystery of light and dark and the great chancel is alive with Tudor roses and heraldry. The De La Warr chantry contains beautiful early French motifs from a Book of Hours. These must be some of the best renaissance carvings in any English church.
De La Warr Chantry on the left  leading to the stained glass
The small Benedictine priory of Boxgrove in West Sussex was founded in about 1107, originally for just three monks. In a beautiful setting at the foot of the South Downs, the principal remains include a fine two-storey guest house, roofless but standing to its full height at the gable ends. Disbanded during the time of Henry VIII Dissolution of Monasteries.


 Sat: 29Sep

Toured Tortington Manor, St Mary Magedlon’s Church then drive to Littlehampton and toured the seaside and had take-away lunch from Osca’s. We sat on the benches along the Arun River enjoying our company, the sun and view of the river. 


Memories were on overload entering New England College Arundel grounds (now Tortington Manor). The old  NEC-A campus has had a face lift but this view has never changed. Fields and this glorious view of Arundel.
Wayne and Keith on the old NEC-A campus with an amazing view
West Wing with a new look, staircase with stairs leading to the second floor gone, ivy and brick no longer visible.  What remains are the buildings and elegance of Tortington Manor.  The memories of this place, even after 40 years, resonate with so many happy thoughts of students, faculty and experiences.

East Wing, Wayne's old dorm and Dining Hall now flats
We walked across the grounds to the small church and graveyard beyond the hedges. We arrived to clean-up day and delighted to meet the people there who had stories about the church and visitors from the USA.


St. Mary Magdalene, Tortington founded in the 12th century to serve a priory and villagers in the riverside location, it has experienced little change despite a 19th-century restoration. Its ancient chancel arch and doorway have remarkable carvings with "grotesque, boggle-eyed monsters", rare beakhead figures and chevron ornamentation.
The ecclesiastical parish was originally shaped like an inverted triangle, but many boundary changes took place over the centuries. As well as the manor—mentioned in the Domesday survey of 1086—there was a medieval Augustinian monastery, Tortington Priory. An agricultural hamlet had developed by the 12th century, and its layout and function have changed little since then.
Norman windows survive: these are large, round-arched and chamfered with deep splays. The chancel has 13th-century lancets, some of which have stained glass by Charles Eamer Kempe (one, of St Richard of Chichester, on the left)


Wayne, Craig Thomas and Keith in front of Manor House
After visiting the old New England College Arundel Campus at Tortington Park we traveled to Littlehampton where Wayne spent his Fall 1978 semester off campus with Ross Almo, Leslie Art and Leslie MacDonald in flat 21C South Terrace overlooking an open field looking out to the Ocean.  We watched the Guy Falk's barn fires there, walked on the beach, and enjoyed the sound of the water during our time at NEC-A.


South Terrace at the corner of Norfolk Road stands the building where Flat 21C was the home to 4 New England College Arundel students, Wayne, Leslie, Ross and Leslie in the Fall 1978.
Wayne in the Telephone Booth near the flat, the one we all used to call our parents
Mouth of the Arun River in Littlehampton, new marina
Keith and Wayne in Littlehampton
Sharing memories with Craig & Craig and making new wonderful memories.  We will be back to Arundel.
We spent the evening at Tropics Sauna for bear night. Very nice people we met at the spa. Many thoughts on places to visit while in Germany and Europe.  Headed back to Arundel had tea before bed and slept well.


Sun: 30Sep

Had a wonderful morning breakfast, got dressed and walked along the Arun River towards the Castle Grounds. We stopped at the Community Garden filled with beautiful roses and benches. Walked to the Castle, through the gates first to the Rose Garden and Gothic Archways, meandering up towards the Keep but made a lovely stop at The Collectors Earl’s Garden. Magnificent new garden based on 17th Century classical garden design, circular labyrinth designed into the grass where tulips bloom in spring.  Then the Classic English Herbacious Borders, Stumpery, Thatched Roundhouse in Wild Flower Garden, Potager/Organic Kitchen Garden, Tropical GlasshouseCut Flower Garden and  Vine and Peach House. After taking many photos of the gardens, the Cathedral from the gardens, we made our way to the 14th Century Fitzalan Chapel, White Garden and Parish Church.  We saw the Ancient Cork Oak tree then walked to the Castle Keep, oldest section of the Castle. The views from the keep at the Town of Arundel, Arun River meandering towards Littlehampton and the sea were magnificent.  We walked past the Barbican to the Castle entrance and became thoroughly enthralled with the interior rooms, especially the library, warm Honduran woods carved to perfection with warm red and soft lights. The library was perfect making you want to sit and read a book with a spot of tea.  


Walking into Arundel town towards the center and Castle
Inside the gates for Arundel Castle and grounds . Keith, Craig Thomas, Wayne and Craig Adams.  During Wayne's time in Arundel the castle was closed in the fall and opened for summer.

Craig Thomas, Wayne and Keith
Arundel Castle from the Collector Earl's Garden
Fitzalan Chapel, Catholic chapel attached to St. Nicholas Parish Anglican Church
White Garden at Fitzalan Chapel entrance

Interesting piece of history regarding Fitzalan Chapel is it was founded on the feast of Corpus Christi in 1380 by Richard, 4th Earl of Arundel as a collegiate chapel served by secular canons. In the reign of Henry VIII the college was disolved. Henry VIII sold the Chapel to the Duke of Norfolk for One Pound but under the auspices that he could take it back and any time. The chapel and other buildings were sold to the family and have been the private property of the Earls of Arundel and the Dukes fo Norfolk ever since.

In 1879, an action heard before Lord Chief Justice Coleridge determined that the Fitzalan Chapel did not form a part of the Parish church but was an independent ecclesiastical structure. The chapel has therefore remained Catholic, an unusual, if not unique, anomaly in England. It is dedicated to the Holy Trinity, Blessed Virgin Mary and All Saints. 

Behind the curtain is the Anglican Church
Burial tombs of Duke and Duchess of Norfolk
Catholic altar, Gothic architecture with a carved timber roof and choir stalls. The carved stone tombs are considered as being of major artistic interest
Scavola (fan flower), purple flower in the foreground, The new formal garden at Arundel has been conceived as a light-hearted tribute to Thomas Howard, 14th Earl of Arundel (1585-1646), known as ‘The Collector’.  The garden is called The Collector  Earl's Garden.  The structures are all made of wood and have been aging to this lovely grey colour.  He died in exile in Padua during the English Civil War and though his body was brought back to England and buried in the Fitzalan Chapel at Arundel.

Wayne and Keith under an wooden arch, sit on a wooden bench in The Collector Earl's Garden

Magnificent view of Arundel Cathedral from within the Castle walls.  The Cathedral Church of Our Lady and St Philip Howard is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Arundel, West Sussex, England. Dedicated in 1873 as the Catholic parish church of Arundel

Craig Thomas and Wayne in the new garden, beautifully designed with  a labyrinth behind us for tulips in the spring
Flower bed in The Collector Earl's Garden
Organic garden, flowers and Swiss chard

Dahlias flower with the Cathedral make for a dramatic photo

view from the Castle Keep to Arundel, Arun River, Ford, and Littlehampton
Looking out towards the Sussex Downs
The Private Chapel inside the Castle, 19th Century Catholic  revival 
Great Hall
The Drawing Room
View of Arundel Castle's Norman motte with the quadrangle in the foreground.
The Library, made with Honduran Mahogney
Keith and Wayne having Sussex Cream Tea
To cap off the day in Arundel, we stopped for Sussex Cream Tea. How the memories then flooded through to this space in 1977 and 1978.  We walked in the center of Arundel to the War Memorial, Norfolk Arms, the former location of the Victorian Rose Tea Room and the former location of Key Bank. Walked through town to the footpath on the Arun back to Craig & Craig’s flat.  Craig whipped up a fabulous dinner of salmon, decadent potatoes and two sides (kale and sweet carrots).  

War Memorial in the center of town with distinct buildings from the past framing it
Students met in the center on warm days

Keith stands under the arch to the carriage house and Norfolk Arms Inn

The oldest Tudor style building in Arundel

Our view whilst walking back to Craig & Craig's home
We had an enjoyable visit with Craig and Craig in Arundel. Extraordinary hospitality, great conversations and sharing of memories from our paths in Arundel and locally.

Mon: 1Oct

We said our good-byes to our terrific hosts before they left for work. 


Walking to the train station with this amazing view of Arundel
Peaceful, sleepy village of Arundel with the Cathedral quintessential England
Keith waiting for our train at Arundel Station. Wayne's memories this has not changed since leaving 40 years earlier.
View from the train to London
We rechecked our schedule and noted my mistake in assuming we were leaving London at 10pm, actually 8pm (20:00). We will be in London for 5 hours before we head to the bus station and leave. We met Craig A. In London since he graciously offered for us to hold our bags in his security area.  The guard that we meet was lovely woman who set our bags to the side.  

We said another good-bye to Craig and walked past the Mews on the way to Greene Park past Buckingham Palace.  We entered the park looking forward to seeing the Botanical Gardens at the end which were in Hyde Park.  The gardens were in bloom with end of summer flowers and trees changing to the shades of autumn with reds, oranges and yellows.  We wandered over to The Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain designed in Cornish Granite with different features in the stone to produce different water sounds for reflection, peace and calm for an auditory and tactile experience.



What's a visit to London without walking past Buckingham Palace
Queen Victoria Monument on the Mall
Bomber Command Memorial 
Wellington Arch
Botanical Gardens in Hyde Park
The Diana, Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain, peaceful sounds of running water with different tones
Kensington Palace
Statue of young Queen Victoria
Albert Memorial with 4 corners of the Globe the Commonwealth reached (America, Europe, Africa and Asia)
We walked over to the Albert Memorial near the Prince Albert Hall then to Kensington Palace, home to the Victoria and Elizabeth as children.  checked the time and walked back to Craig’s office to collect our bags, get cake and coffee then board the bus for the trip back to Düsseldorf.

Tues: 2Oct


Arrived in Düsseldorf at 7:10 am and walked to the flat. Stefan was still home getting ready for work when we arrived.  We put the bed together and slept until 10:00.

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