Saturday, June 8th we are packed and on the curb for 4.30am. We said our good-byes to Sutay, he said if we go to Istanbul he can email friends to take care of us. Another really nice host. We are off to Pakse to catch the 5.20 am bus leaves. This turns out to be a local bus, and we stop for our driver to have breakfast at 7.20. Keith and Wayne grabbed some really yummy bread for our breakfast. On the bus, we were seated, the conductor gets plastic stools come out of the toilet for other passengers to sit in the aisle. More stops more people, then a serious crash in the middle of a construction zone. Luckily it did not involve us.
Landscape along our journey to Laos
Here is the accident scene
Beautiful landscape through Cambodia
Housing along the road
Getting closer to the border
We arrive at the Cambodia border at Trapeang Kriel hand our passports over to the conductor who gets our exited stamps. The bus then moves ahead and we have to disembark and walk to the Laos border. Took us about 10 minutes to walk from one border to the other.
Trapeang Kriel, Cambodian Immigration border crossing
Keith walking from the Cambodian side to Laos border
Wayne walking from Cambodian border to Laos
We made it to the border crossing, no guards or any officials here. We arrive late and go straight to the immigration office to secure our Visa in Laos.
Keith stands on the porch of Nong Nok Khiene immigration office
Sunsets over the newly built border office, which has not opened yet.
Sun is setting at Nong Nok Khiene and we get on the mini bus
Arrived Laos border at 5.30 pm, walked across the border and waited for Visa on Arrival and Arrival stamp. Sunset over the Laos border. We climbed into the waiting mini bus to take to our final destination. We have another 2.5 hours to go to Pakse. Finally left border 7.00pm made it to Nang Noi Guesthouse at 10.00pm. Went straight to sleep.
Well this is our first full day in Laos, it is Sunday, June 9th. We get up at 5.30 am, rented motor bike drove a bit around Pakse after our fourth ATM try provided cash, all others needed 6 digit PIN. Most American banks only have a 4 digit PIN. Get your bank in the US to give you a 6 digit PIN when you travel to Southeast Asia. We have a wonderful breakfast and coffee at Delta Coffee. Got on the motorbike and off to Vat Phu, our first UNESCO site in Laos. Interesting ride, hairy leeches on the road every so many feet, well the peel bit. Animals crossing the road, road just abruptly died and turned into bumpy red dirt road. Made it to the best UNESCO site, at least in our top 5. Temple on the hill, City ruins below with manmade lakes.
What a great day, back to Pakse showered and driver picked us up half hour earlier than expected, 19:12 instead of 19:45. Arrived to take Rainbow sleeper bus. Played cards with a Lao guy across from us. Dinner was fried rice and water, then lights out. Nice evening interacting with local people and laughing as we played cards.
Mekong River as we leave Pakse to Wat Phu
Cows were walking in the roads during out ride
Siva mountain in the distance where we are going
Red dirt road we had to take, a lot of dust blown up by vehicle in front or passing in the opposite direction.
Wat Phu looking towards the ruins of two libraries on each side of the promenade
Ruins from the library and looking towards the temple steps with Siva mountain in the distance
North library ruins
Promenade walkway to the Temple on the hill
7 sets of 11 steps take you to the temple at the top
Ancient city ruins and manmade lakes below the temple
Monk returning from the temple
Returning to Pakse with cattle along the road and crossing in front us.
Guys loading truck as we pass by.
Sunsetting over Japanese Friendship Bridge heading back to Pakse
What a great day, back to Pakse showered and driver picked us up half hour earlier than expected, 19:12 instead of 19:45. Arrived to take Rainbow sleeper bus. Played cards with a Lao guy across from us. Dinner was fried rice and water, then lights out. Nice evening interacting with local people and laughing as we played cards.
Night bus, destination Vientiane, we slept in bunk A21 and A22
On Monday, June 10th we were sound a sleep until the bus stopped for the scheduled pee break at 1:44 am back we go and arrive 5.30 am to Vientiane. We had instructions from Jo on how to get to her house so we took a taxi/tuk tuk. She is our Couchsurfing host in Vientiane Looking forward to meeting her after the emails we have exchanged. We sat around talking with her out front until she left for work at 9.30. After a much needed shower we hop on the bikes and go into town at 11:44am to meet Jo at Bistro 22 for a really nice lunch. Duck and dessert (caramel crepes), French cuisine. Off to the Myanmar embassy for Visa application then Benoni's for ice cream cones, we meet Jo for coffee shakes, yummy! We rode around the side roads then to Highlands for sunset on the Mekong River, we on the Laos side looking at Thailand. We stopped at night market bought tons of food for dinner then back to the house for a very warm greeting from the dogs to all 3 of us. Chatted for a while about Burma then off to bed. Jo has so much to offer us on Myanmar (Burma) and her life story with her ex-husband, a former Burmese freedom fighter. The story is something you would see in a movie.
Couch pets
Our hosts home
Our couch at Jo's, comfortable and relaxing
Sunset from the Highland Bar on the Mekong River looking at Thailand
On Tuesday, heavy rain this morning. Cam took Wayne on the back of her motorbike and Keith rode one of the bikes to the market. Keith was covered with mud from his back to the top of his head, the bike has no fenders. We wanted to learn Lao cooking. Cam showed us how to cook sticky rice from scratch and prepare chicken. After we finished cooking we sat down and ate it for lunch with Cam and La. What amazing flavors in the food, so glad we took the day to learn to cook Lao food. Jo came home around 15:30, we spent the afternoon chatting and planning our mid-weekend day trip for the next day. We played cards and had late dinner. Great fun talking about Jo's family in Rhodesia and skydiving in Zimbabwe.
Central Market, we went grocery shopping to get food to learn how to cook Laotian food
Keith is preparing vegetables with Cam
Preparing chicken with rice flour served with sticky rice and veggie
Wednesday, June 12th, Jo is off today for mid-weekend day, we are off after a good nights sleep to trek along the Mekong to monkey blow job temple and waterfalls. Marvelous start to the day with coffee on the porch then amazing breakfast at Kung's Cafe Lao. Headed off on motor bike to explore along the Mekong and fishing village just past Highlands bar. We found the road under construction building a new road and walk along the river.
We stopped for a Pepsi for salt/ sugar and cold drink. First stop Wat Champa, rocks looked like lava flow. We got blessed by a Buddhist nun. Second stop Wat Horkma for beautiful river Wat Horkma views and monastery across the river, on the Thai side. King of Thailand stayed there. Keith and I walked down to the Mekong put our hangs in. Incredible butterflies by the river. We had lunch at Dreamtime Eco Resort. We met the owners ands Josh from Israel, who was working there for a month. Josh took Keith and I to the swimming holes. He turned around to go back while we went swimming in the waterfall. Last stop Wat Tampa Lucy - Monkey BJ temple. Got our fortunes done, took them home for La to translate for us. Ordered pizza Laotian style. Played cards had lemon-lime bitters to drink.
Thursday, June 13th Keith and Wayne took the bike out after we packed and had lunch in town. We went to the Pha That Luang, Golden Stupa, Tomb of Unknown Soldier, Gold reclining Buddha at Wat Si Saket temple and then we drove to Patouxai, Wat Dam and the Presidential Palace. We met Jo at 15:15 for fruit shakes then went to COPE. What an eye opener, very heavy emotionally with what this rehabilitation center does for victims of cluster bombs. Good cause and lots of information. Went to Jo's had mango/coconut sticky rice, glass of bitters for Keith and white wine for Jo and Wayne. Played cards then La took us to the bus separately by bike. We cut that close and just made it to leave for sleeper. Sadly we left Jo, we had such a great experience with her.
Mekong River view from the motorbike
Fishing village along the banks of the Mekong
Farmer sitting under the tree with his dog and cow
market along the street
Keith crossing the bridge as we make our way to Wat Champa
We stopped for a Pepsi for salt/ sugar and cold drink. First stop Wat Champa, rocks looked like lava flow. We got blessed by a Buddhist nun. Second stop Wat Horkma for beautiful river Wat Horkma views and monastery across the river, on the Thai side. King of Thailand stayed there. Keith and I walked down to the Mekong put our hangs in. Incredible butterflies by the river. We had lunch at Dreamtime Eco Resort. We met the owners ands Josh from Israel, who was working there for a month. Josh took Keith and I to the swimming holes. He turned around to go back while we went swimming in the waterfall. Last stop Wat Tampa Lucy - Monkey BJ temple. Got our fortunes done, took them home for La to translate for us. Ordered pizza Laotian style. Played cards had lemon-lime bitters to drink.
Buddhist shrine under the large rock in a cave
Jo having evil spirits removed during the blessing
Buddhist nun puts the good spirits into Wayne during the blessing
Buddhist nun taking the evil spirits from Keith
Keith, Jo and Wayne at overlook to the Mekong River and Thailand at the banks
Buddha and the elephants
Jo leading us to Wat Horkma
Wat Horkma sits on the banks of the Mekong River
Walking down to the shrine
Wat Horkma
Butterflies are all along the banks of the river
Dreamtime Eco Resort
Jo and Keith relaxing before we have lunch and a hike at the resort
A peaceful hike along the water and many waterfalls, Keith and Wayne could not resist the urge to take a swim
Kids playing ball on our trip to Wat Tampa Lucy - Monkey BJ temple
Entrance to Wat Tampa Lucy
Wat Tampa Lucy
Buddha pee, is it similar to the manneken pis
King Saysetthathirath stupa located
in front of That Luang Stupa located in the Saysetthathirath Gardens
in front of That Luang Stupa located in the Saysetthathirath Gardens
The 45 metres high That Luang Stupa or Pha That Luang was originally built during the ancient Khmer civilisation, when Vientiane was inhabited by people known as the ‘Cham’
Thatluang Wat Neua
Gold reclining Buddha - Wat Si Saket temple. Built between, 1819 and 1824 by Chao Anon, is believed to be Vientiane's oldest surviving temple.
Thatluang Wat Neua looking towards Pha That Luang
Thatluang Wat Neua looking towards the Saysetthathirath Gardens
Thatluang Wat Neua
Patouxai, Victory Gate or the Arch of Victory. Patuxai is dedicated to those who fought in the struggle for independence from France.
That Dam means Black Stupa is a large stupa. Many Laotians believe it is inhabited by a seven-headed nāga who tried to protect them from an invasion by the Siamese army in 1827
Presidential Palace
Chao Anouvong Statue
Letter to COPE from Hillary Rodham Clinton
mango/coconut sticky rice
Jo and Keith sitting out on the front porch
Night market, grabbed some leeches before we set off
Good morning northern Laos, sunrise during our trip to Luang Prabang
The landscape is really beautiful, mist and sunrise to greet us to another day.
Here is our alarm, crowing to the top of his lungs waking everyone
Mekong River - Luang Prabang, Laos
Wat Paphaimisaiyaram is one of 32 temples Luang Prabang
Wat Pah Duak
Painted murals in Wat Pah Duak
Vat Pa Phay temple
Wath Thammothaya Ram
Kids playing in the Mekong River
View from Wat Mai Suwantnaphumaham looking over Luang Prabang and the Mekong River
View from Wat Mai Suwantnaphumaham
Mount Phou Si is a 100m high hill in the centre of the old town of Luang Prabang. It lies in the heart of the old town peninsula and is bordered on one side by the Mekong River and on the other side by the Nam Khan River. The hill is a local religious site, and houses several Buddhist shrines.
Halfway up the hill, overlooking the Nam Khan is Wat Tham Phou Si, a Buddhist temple. At the summit of the hill, overlooking the town and surrounding countryside, is Wat Chom Si, which is also a Buddhist temple.
Old Quarter along the Mekong on Khem Khong Road
Night market
Sun is setting over Luang Prabang and the night market comes alive
Night settling in on the Old Quarter along the Mekong on Khem Khong Road
Bougnasouk Guesthouse on Khem Kohng Road
Lights on the Mekong River
June 15th, Saturday boarded slow boat, met Bonnie (from California) and Tom (UK) again but formally introduced ourselves this time. Long 8 hour trip on a very crowded local boat to Pak Beng. Beautiful landscape, large powerful river. Arrived 6.45pm
Loading our long boat for the trip to Pak Beng
The views on the Mekong River are so beautiful
Long boats on the serving the villages along the way
Little boy fast a sleep most of the trip
Chicken in a box
Fisherman on the Mekong River
Boys fascinated with Keith's iPad
Village on the hill along the river
Our destination Pak Beng with all the long boats docked for the night
Pak Beng, Laos view from Riverfront Restaurant
Very early in the middle of the morning on Sunday, June 16th we woke to flashlight in our window at 2.00am looking at the backpacks below, this made us uneasy and stayed awake for a while then finally fell a sleep to 6.00 am. We had breakfast and Lao coffee with Bonnie and Tom then grabbed our stuff. We boarded the boat for 7:30 am.
Amazing, unusual landscapes with large shale type rock formations in the water, fast currents with whirlpools and white water currents, kids playing in the river and life along the Mekong. Got to Thailand border with Laos and land got flat on the Laos side. Arrived Huay Xai to cross border tomorrow. Checked out a couple of places to stay after walking from the pier. Stayed at Sanaydee Guesthouse.
Life along the Mekong River on the Laos side
Woman walks with her son on the beach
3 boys walking along the beach on the Laos side
Long boats a way of life on the Mekong River
Man fishing in the river
Temple on the Thai side
June 17th, Monday Huay Xai got up for breakfast at Riverview restaurant. Met some backpackers who told us to take night train to Bangkok and trekkers camp in Chiang Mai. Checked out, then met Bonnie and Tom to walk to the ferry and get out exit stamps out of Laos. Smooth exit and stamped. No costs for exit stamp, crossed over to Chiang Khong, Thailand.
Tom, Keith and Bonnie as we cross the Mekong River into Thailand
Boats land at the bottom onto Thailand beach
Monk sat in the front of the boat
Keith ready for the next crossing
Wayne ready to cross to another country
Chiang Khong immigration office is packed with people in cue while we wait for our Passport stamped and Visa
Met mini van brought us to immigration, visa on arrival. No cost incurred, our visa in Thailand is good to July 1st.
What can we say, we loved the diversity of Laos. It may be the poorest country in Southeast Asia but the people are wonderful and friendly. Thanks Jo for your hospitality. Bonnie and Tom so glad we connected and traveled together.
Wayne & Keith
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