Global Nomads: 30 Days at Battery Point Lighthouse, Crescent City, CA 1Nov to 1Dec

 We arrived the night before we were due on 1Nov. Harlan came down the island on the ATV meeting us as the tide was going out. He and Jane were moving off island to complete the switch.  The ATV needed to be repaired, broken shock.  George and Cheryl came by with their ATV on trailer to help bring everyone's things across.

Battery Point Lighthouse at sunset 31Oct

Harlan and Jane Watkins have been part of the lighthouse through the Del Norte County Historical Society, Harlan is our contact and has taken over managing the lighthouse. We met with Karen Betlejewski first at the museum to get keys, money and run through on the Square system before heading over to the lighthouse at 13:30 when the tide was going out.

We were moved into the lighthouse by 15:00, it is an honor and privilege to be able to live in the lighthouse, complete daily chores and other things around the light and island.  

Our first sunset at Battery Point Lighthouse 1Nov

The first 11 days we stayed on the island, we had some new friends, Paul and Bruce, stopped by from Gold Beach, OR.  They went to the Rumiano Cheese Company, we have been told about their cheese curds.  We completed daily chores, cleaning and checking for water infiltration into the building and basement.

We had tours everyday prior to the official weekend days.  Our first weekend permitting people to cross for the tours was the 13th and 14th November from 11-4 tide permitting.  We had good weather for the weekend with many guests on the island wanting tours.

In 1855, the ship America burned in the Crescent City Harbor. Three cannons were salvaged from the shipwreck and mounted nearby on the point at the northern side of the harbor's entrance. The cannons, which were often fired during Fourth of July celebrations, led to the point being named Battery Point.

Sunrise waves

The path leading to shore and the beach, high tide no path and no beach

In its 160-year history, many keepers and their families have tended the light. Also known as the Crescent City Light Station, the lighthouse was operated by the U.S. Lighthouse Service until 1936 when the U.S. Coast Guard took over operation and maintenance. The light was automated in 1953, but the Coast Guard continued to maintain the Fifth Order Drumm lens until 1965 when it was decommissioned. The light was then reactivated as a private aid to navigation in 1982.

We actually performed tours of the lighthouse during the week and off hours on the weekends as "unofficial tours" bringing people through the Residence into the main 4 room house.

The lighthouse was built in 1856 of 2 foot thick granite and stands on a 6 foot thick granite foundation. The house is Cape Cod style with dining room, parlor (now the museum and boutique), two bedrooms on the second floor.  The second floor rooms are the Wayne Piland room (in the name of the last lighthouse keeper) and the current resident keeper bedroom.  

Because of this location, the station was always in peril.  One such event occurred in 1879. A heavy storm rolled in off the Pacific and sent a huge wave towards the lighthouse. It is estimated the first wave was 45' and so powerful, it knocked in the wall of the kitchen, which in turn knocked the stove over. The stove set the kitchen on fire, the keeper was attempting to pump water from the cistern to put the fire out that had reached the lean-to roof, luckily for the keeper, another wave estimated to be 75' quickly followed and extinguished the fire.

Another such story of a massive wave occurred on the night of March 27, 1964. An earthquake in Alaska sent five tidal waves down the coast. Luckily for the keepers, the way the waves broke, missed the lighthouse.  Crescent City was not spared.  Twenty-nine blocks in town were demolished by the waves. Today,, the lighthouse is a museum, open to the public during low tide.

Kitchen, part of the unofficial tour built between 1897 to 1907.

This room was originally the dining room, converted into a Victorian Parlor to  give the public a feel on how the lighthouse keepers lived.

Wayne E. Piland room, antique furniture and artifacts,  would have been the original keepers room facing northerly allowing the keeper to sleep during the day when necessary

The current keepers room, faces southerly, much light comes into the room from sunrise to sunset

Bathroom was added above the kitchen structure with clawfoot tub and modern conveniences around 1907

Tower stands on a 6 foot square foundation in the basement supporting this masonry brick structure. Both the house and tower would survive independent of the loss of the  other.

Our second day at the lighthouse the waves were breaking and crashing on the rocks and cliffs of the island.  Change in the weather with higher wave heights and tides.

Waves crashing all day, this was taken at 11:15 am

Morning light

The sunrises here are amazing, never disappointed getting outside with the wind, waves, fresh air and dawn

The weather and days all blend over time but the lighthouse had an impact on us. The beauty of being on an island then watched the public attempts to cross the 'dragons back' or beat a wave breaking on the rocks in anticipation of coming up. We greeted many people when they came up to the light, gave the history of the building and the characters that lived here.  It was a complete pleasure to have the opportunity to be keepers and dosants at Battery Point Lighthouse.

We were officially open for tours 6 days, 3 weekends, 19 hours, we elected to give tours during off hours when people were interested, 345 people came through the lighthouse, not counting the amounts of people we spoke with outdoors.

King Tide waves breaking over the jetty

Keith standing where the last outhouse stood, wave breaks 20' below and splash over his head

19th century bellows pump organ, first week we were in the lighthouse the candle on the left was moved everyday. (not by either of us)

The waves and power of the Pacific are overwhelmingly beautiful

Outside washing windows 

Another day draws to a close and so has our time at Battery Point Lighthouse

Global Nomads: 13 Days on the Coastal Oregon, Astoria to Crescent City, CA 20Oct - 31Oct2021

We are so happy to be back on the road after the repairs and headed to Astoria, OR via 26N to 101N. We camped over night at Fort Steven's State Park in Hammond, OR we parked in Site E145.  We plugged in, had Chicken Pot Pie for dinner. Beautiful campground with full or partial hook-ups, clean bathrooms and nice warm showers.

The following day we woke to rain, such a beautiful sound on the roof. We will start at Milepost 0 and drive south to Milepost 363 on the California Border. Entering the Lewis and Clark National Historic Park driving on 101 north to Fort Stevens, it runs from Long Beach, WA to Cannon Beach, OR.

Toured Fort Stevens, Peter Iredale shipwreck and battery points within the State Park. It was crazy windy with sand blowing. The shipwreck is from 1906. The waves are crashing in on the beach and wreck. Went to the South Jetty mouth of the Columbia River with major white breaks and waves.

Peter Iredale Shipwreck -  formerly a four-masted steel barque sailing vessel that ran ashore October 25, 1906, on the Oregon coast en route to the Columbia River. She was abandoned on Clatsop Spit near Fort Stevens in Warrenton about four miles south of the Columbia River channel.

Rough seas

Battery Russell

Wildlife Viewing Bunker on the Columbia River very windy for any birds. Went to Battery Russell and Battery Commanders Station rain let up allowing us to take some photos. The homeless population has multiplied in Oregon even onto the coastal area.  We had a long enough window without ran to visit historic Fort Stevens 1863 Civil War fortress, Japanese Submarine attacked the fort while it was active until 1944.

Battery Commanders Station

A must do was the Astoria Column, we walked up 164 steps the column, to view the Young, Lewis and Clark and Columbia Rivers. Beautiful column and vistas. We chatted with a woman at the column then her husband came over, we chatted for a long while as we admired the view.

Astoria Column

Dedicated by the Great Northern Railway in 1926, the Astoria Column stands today as a monument to those people. Attilio Pusterla's sgraffito artwork, an ancient technique in which images are engraved into wet plaster and then colored powders are hand-blown into the outlines, is a source of wonder for many. The lower bands begin with Captain Gray’s arrival to the Columbia River in May 1792, and his first contact with the Chinook and Clatsop tribes. As it winds up to the top of the column, the histogram continues with the Lewis and Clark Expedition’s arrival in the area, the arrival of the first European settlers, and ends with the arrival of the railroad to Astoria in 1893.

Convergance of Young River, Lewis and Clark River join the Columbia River

Viewing Untethered (RV) from the top of the Column

Our second day on the coast, we are in Astoria, we stopped at the Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center spoke with a great woman that gave us tons of information about the area. She recommended Mile by Mile tourist magazine detailing every milepost on the coastline with points of interest and hiking information. This became our go to Bible for the entire trip southerly on 101.

We head over to Fort Clatsop, a unit within Lewis and Clark National Historical Park. Walked the river trail along the Lewis and Clark River and back to the Visitor Center. Met a Ranger on our hike that was very informative and helpful. She told us about mushrooms and National Parks needing volunteers.

Fort Clatsop

Fort Clatsop was the winter encampment for the Corps of Discovery from December 1805 to March 1806. The visitor center includes a replica of Fort Clatsop similar to the one built by the explorers.

Lewis and Clark River Trail

Autumn is arriving

Ecola State Park lone tree

Really nice 2.90 mile hike, between rain storms, along the Lewis and Clark River. Headed to Seaside, we walked the Main Street down to the beach and Lewis and Clark Monument End of Trail.  All the stores were closed, coastal town.

From Ecola SP we saw Haystack, Cannon Beach and Tillamock Rock Lighthouse. We had breakfast then started south further on 101 in the Oregon Rocks National Wildlife Refuge.

The beauty of no one on the road at 8:00

Ecola State Park Lone Tree

Tillamook Lighthouse off the coast

Cannon Beach

Cannon Beach and Haystack in the fog

Cannon Beach

Haystack

Part of the beach continued to get fogged over

Within an hour the fog cleared 

Bicycling on Cannon Beach in B&W

Came back through Cannon Beach, parked and walked to the beach to photo and see Haystack.  We are in for the largest storm on record that has hit the Pacific Northwest. King tide on Sunday.

Heading South from Cannon Beach on 101 to Nehalem.

We stopped at Silver Point Interpretive Overlook, Bald Eagle on top of Silver Point Rock. Rock to the south Jockey Cap. Further south close to the coast is Castle Rock. 

Silver Point Interpretive Overlook

Stopped at Hug Point State Recreation Area. Walked the cobbles on the beach (12:00 - 12:41). Drove through Arch Cape Tunnel. Stopped for lunch at the highest point on the Oregon Coast, below Neahkahnie Mountain off 101. Gorgeous overlook within Oswald West State Park. 

Hug Point State Recreation Area Beach

Hug Point Beach

Sun flare Hug Point

Oswald West State Park Overlook

Continues down 101 to Tillamook Creamery. Self guided tour to watch the cheese making, weighing and packaging. Tons of information, while interesting to read and understand their process, seeing the cheese come from the molds to packaging was fascinating. Despite the machinery there is a lot of hands on quality control in the plant.

Tillamook Creamery

Cheese on conveyor belts ready for processing and packaging

We went to Cape Meares National Wildlife Refuge and Cape Meares lighthouse, we boondocked outside the gates on the dead end. 

Cape Meares Lighthouse sunset

Rough water in the Pacific along Cape Meares

We continued from Astoria down the coast road to Cape Lookout, 75 miles in 4 days.

We are into Day 4 driving down the Oregon Coast, taking the Oregon State Byway to Cape Lookout. It was pouring rain, stopping at Cape Lookout State Park.  The campsites were flooded, really pretty location on the water with dunes between the site and Pacific. We left the campground continuing onward on Three Capes Route to Cape Kiwanda.

To our surprise we saw giant sand dunes between Cape Lookout and Cape Kiwanda, Sand Lake State Recreation Area covering 1,076 acres with forest and  Pacific Ocean surrounding it. It is about 15 miles south of Tilamook, OR.

Sand Lake State Recreation Area

To our surprise, Sand everywhere

The Three Capes Route takes you right through the dunes. This is the right side.

Three Capes Route coastal road

Sitka Sedge State Natural Area

Sitka Sedge State Natural Area is an estuary and beach on the north coast of the U.S. state of Oregon in Tillamook County. Sitka Sedge consists of 357 acres of tidal marsh, mudflats, dunes, forested wetlands, and uplands at the south end of the Sand Lake estuary, north of Tierra Del Mar.

We got to speak with the Camp Hosts. He and his wife were walking their two Skipper Kees along the path of the 85 year old dike built by a farmer. Sand Lake was to our right and saltwater marsh area.  He recommended walking over to the estuary along Sand Lake and the Ocean.

The rain finally stopped long enough for a 2.39 mile hike at Sitka Sedge State Natural Area in Cloverdale, OR off Sandlake Road inside 101 along the coast. We took the Dike Trail to Estuary Trail and the Beach loop.  Beautiful natural area with tree canopy over the trails with tons of mushrooms.  We had a really nice hike for 1:30 hours before the rain came back. 

While it started raining again we continued the journey down the Three Capes Route Loop towards 101, this is a must see along the coast.  The Oregon Coast has so much to offer for hikers, nature lovers, birding and beaches.

Intense winds, high surf and empty spectacular beach

Cape Overlook, Cloverdale, OR

With all the rain, the mushrooms are abundant on the hiking trails in Sitka Sedge State Natural Area

Gleneden Beach State Recreation Area

The road along the coast collapsed onto the beach.  The park along the beach was not harmed.  Waves were 6-8' with strong easterly winds. It was an amazing experience to drive and hike along the coast.

Cape Kiwanda State Natural Area

Boiler Bay State Scenic Viewpoint

Watching the Pacific churn from Boiler Bay

Depoe Bay

Devil's Punchbowl

Devil's Punchbowl

Beach at Devil's Punchbowl, Otter Rock, OR

Sunset over Otter Rock State Park Beach

Yaquina Head Lighthouse, Newport, OR

Yaquina Head Lighthouse Cobble Beach

We continued the drive down the coastline in howling winds and rain. The sun did come through at times during the day.  We did some needed shopping at Columbia then drove further south ending our day having pizza at Cobblestone Pizza in Newport, OR. We drove 75.5 miles and spent the night in Newport. We were treating to an amazing show from nature (haze, mist and sun flares).

We are now 5 days into the journey south from Astoria to Crescent City, CA 215.1 miles to go, the Oregon Coast is a must to travel along Highway 101 and the loops along the coast. In 4 days we have only travelled 148.6 miles.  Stopping and taking in the breathtaking vistas, scenery like no other.  We crossed the Alsea Bridge in Walport, 

Alsea Bridge crossing from Bayshore to Waldport, OR

The bridge is 2,910 ft (890 m) in total length, with a 450 ft (140 m) main span that provides 70 ft (21 m). of vertical clearance. The bridge has a latex concrete deck and the piers are significantly thicker than normal in an attempt to thwart corrosion. Its life expectancy is 75 to 100 years.

It is so cool to go back through our trip and update photos and blog with memories of time on the road. The west coast has been amazing, seeing old friends and making new along the way.  We are truly lucky to have the means and good health to travel this way, completely independent and free.

Yachats, OR

People below watching the King Tide

The wonders of nature

Devil's Churn, ocean water churns and looks like cream

Despite the weather forecast for 25Oct (Day 6) of our journey to plug along taking side trips to hike and see more coastline, State Parks and Recreation Areas, as well as, lighthouses.

The crazy weather with potential flooding, strong winds and mudslides.  We joked about entering Tsunami areas then going up in elevation out of them.

We could hear waves crashing all night, we made it down to Strawberry Hill Viewpoint part of Neptune State Park Research Preserve.

Siuslaw National Forest, Florence, OR

We continued our slow drive along the foggy, wet, rain driven coast finding small places to duck into along the way.  At Carl Washburn State Park we hiked 1.22 miles on the Hobbit trail to Hobbit Beach, really nice surprise to the hike.

Another lighthouse,  Heceta Head Lighthouse at Heceta Head.  We are 12 miles north of Florence, OR on The Central Coast at milepost 178.3. We had grilled Cheese and Boar’s Head Cracked Pepper Turkey Sandwiches for lunch. 

I went to pay for the day pass fee and a nice woman offered me hers.  We hiked up to the Heceta Head Lighthouse, beautiful location and lighthouse. It started to rain on the way down.  We left there and stopped at Heceta Head Lighthouse Viewpoint. Stopped further down the road overlooking the Oregon Sand Dunes.

Heceta Head Lighthouse from the Viewpoint

Found a bog, stopped at  Darlingtonia State Natural Site Wayside. Pitcher plant bog filled with huge pitch plants. Really cool boardwalk and interpretive site about the plants, they all have mustaches.

Siuslaw North Jetty waves with white caps and dunes, sun came out with a rain storm approaching. Lush green space with large grasses.

Darlingtonia State Natural Wayside filled with thousands of Pitcher Plants

Oregon Dunes State Park

We leave Florence, OR at milepost 190.6 continuing on the Pacific Coast Scenic Byway to Umpqua River Lighthouse in Winchester Bay, OR.

Umpqua River Lighthouse, originally the first lighthouse in the Oregon Territory built 1857 near the mouth fo the river. It was undermined and destroyed by flood February 1864.  Rebuilt in in it current location 1891 and completed in 1894. Housing a red and white Fresnal lens.

Lake Marie off Umpqua Lighthouse Road

Sunset Bay State Park

Cape Arago Lighthouse

Cape Arago Lighthouse from Lighthouse Lookout.  Constructed in 1866 housing a fourth-order Fresnel lens. The lighthouse sits on an island in Coos Bay.

Cape Coquille River Lighthouse, built 1896 the last lighthouse built on the OR coast. Decommissioned in 1939. Coos Bay.

Bullards Beach State Park 

Bullards Beach

As we reached Bandon, OR made plans to stop for dinner with some friends.  We visited Brian and Frank, then headed further south to Gold Beach. We had fun catching up with them the next day we left and headed towards Gold Beach.

We stayed on the Beach Loop road staying on the coastline for 37.4 miles.  We had some really good barbecue at Gold Beach BBQ. We had stopped at Sisters Rock for the sunset.

Bullards Beach

We returned the following day to Coquille River Lighthouse with blue skies and no rain.

Seawall Coquille River

Bandon Beach

Kronenberg County Park, Bandon, OR overlook, the power of the Ocean

Face Rock State Scenic Viewpoint

Cape Blanco Lighthouse at dawn, storm was over us.

We arrived at Cape Blanco around 5:00am, Keith was restless and wanted to move, so up we get to the lighthouse at dawn.  The sky was hazed over with clouds but we got a lucky shot of the light at the right time, was able to get this at 8:57am after we settled in and had breakfast.

Cape Blanco State Park Overlook

We are on the last two days of our journey south on the Oregon Coastal Scenic Byway along 101. The weather has started to clear and improve. The coastline is magnificent with its ruggedness.

Tseridun State Recreation Area and Agate Beach, Port Orford

Big waves hit Agate Beach

Port Orford Head State Park along the beach

Remarkable show of nature's power at Port Orford Head

Battle Rock Park Wayside

Battle Rock Park is named for the historic battle that took place at Battle Rock City Park is dedicated in memory of the ancient people (Dene Tsut Dah). In 1850 the U.S. Congress passed the Oregon Donation Land Act, allowing white settlers to file claims on Indian Land in Western Oregon. Although no Indian Nation had signed a single treaty. On June 9, 1851 Capt. William Tichenor of the steamship Sea Gull landed with nine men for the purpose of establishing a white settlement. For two weeks the nine were besieged on the island called Battle Rock.  The white settlers under the cover of darkness escaped to Umpqua City and returned in July with seventy men.  Now, visitors can hike the hill to the top of the Rock and see one of the most spectacular views on the coast.

We really took our time with the drive sometimes only going .4 miles finding another gem to stop for and breath in the beauty and clean air. We found Humbug Myrtlewood Grove along the way, small grove with a creek and picnic tables.  Only us and a guy that was fly fishing.

Humbug Myrtlewood Grove

Arizona Beach State Recreation Site, Muscle Creek

We sighted a Steller's Jay at Arizona Beach

Arizona Beach

Sunset at Oregon Coast Highway Viewpoint at Black Rock within Cape Sebastian State Scenic Corridor

We are in the final leg of our trip in Oregon entering Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor.  The corridor stretches 12 miles along the coast, and as the name suggests, is full of beautiful scenery. The area is full of huge Sitka spruce trees, rugged coastline, and small sandy beaches. 

Natural Bridge Viewpoint

Thomas Creek Bridge Trail

We arrived in Crescent City, CA a day early for our transfer to become the lighthouse keepers for the month of November.  We were happy to make it down the Oregon coast and see so much in 13 days, 368 miles, 10 lighthouses.

Astoria, OR to Crescent City, CA